Ok, so you have a board that isn’t flat. You flatten a face, joint an edge, rip the edge and joint it and then plane the other face. The board is flat- no twists, winds, cups etc.
Then you let the board sit for a day or two “to relieve internal stresses”. Now look at the board again and it isn’t flat any more. SO what do you do now?
Replies
Maybe the board is "reaction wood"? The link is to an article about it.
http://www.bowyersedge.com/reaction.html
Assuming your initial milling was intentionally oversize, re-square your stock; if this would make your stock undersize, you may have to improvise or start over again.
You didn't, by any chance, store your freshly-sawn wood on a concrete floor did you?
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Nope, on a saw horse.
Edited 9/11/2005 7:28 am ET by Biscardi
"Nope, on a saw horse."
If your stock was on a single horse, lengthwise, there way not have been equal and adequate air circulation.
I generally try to ensure material is stored with adequate support along its entire length, e.g., stickered every foot or so, on a level floor, with a little weight on top top hold the load flat; don't know the length of your material, or the distance between your horses, but that could have been a contributing factor.
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
.....there might not have been equal/adequate air circulation". Thanks Jazz, that's why I said "turn it over"Philip Marcou
Friends,
Thanks for the many good replies. It sounds like I need to take less stock off just the planed face. I tried to leave the stock as thick as I could (7/8) as the piece will take a big load. Also, I need to sticker wood and not let it lie flat on the bench or in a stack.
I couldn't let the wood sit that long as I am under pressure to get the job out soon
Still wood moves.
Thanks
Frank
You will find that serious amateurs and almost all professional woodworkers of any repute have a far larger investment in inventory than in tools. You can't do good work with a knife at your throat over the 100 bd ft. you just took delivery of that is needed to finish a project promised yesterday.
It is more a necessity than a luxury to walk out to your shed and pull what you need secure in the knowledge that if piece or two don't work out all you need to do is pull more.
The next time you think you need a new tool buy a hundred board feet of something nice instead. Do this enough times and you'll have a nice supply of well seasoned lumber and the knife will be removed from your throat.
I pick the best out of the pile for the critical pieces, and use the worst for where it doesn't matter so much. In any cabinet there are always pieces that will be constrained to stay straight by the construction, pieces that will be unseen, etc. For instance, face-framing pieces can afford to have some bend in them - the carcase will hold them in line after glueing.
DR
Turn it over.
Your process is a little odd in order. It's important to try to take equal amounts off both faces of the stock. This usually means flipping the board as you plane. After milling, it's a good idea to sticker the stock so that there is free air movement all around the piece. If you wait until it is planed before straightening the edge, you will have a choice of two faces to reference to. This allows four possible directions instead of two when running on the jointer. This won't affect the bowing though, it just gives you a better chance to cut with the grain.
When you flatten one face, you don't have to get it 100% surfaced. It's better if you just get it flat enough to reference to the planer tables. This way you won't remove a great deal of material off one side and start the piece reacting. There are always those pieces that have a mind of their own. Some folks will partially mill their stock and wait. Many of us don't have that luxury of time. Proper storage and stickering before and during the milling process makes a difference.
Biscardi ,
I would tend to agree with Ring , use the right board in the right place. For door stiles flat is best , face frames will be glued to the box , use clamps where bowed to get tight seams. What will this particular piece of wood be used for ? Even drawer faces that get fastened to a drawer box can have a little bow to them . Maybe if you used the piece before allowing it to move again it may stay flat . Also as was said remove equal amounts from each side to try and keep the moisture content centered . Choose the pieces that need to be near perfect from your stock before using any others. Wood can be an unforgiving medium , it has a mind of it's own and often each piece wants to be treated differently .
good luck dusty
Have had the same experience many times. Whenever possible I rough cut length and width, then set aside for 2-7 days. The longer I let the wood "adjust" it seems the less it wants to move after further milling. Ditto planing equally from both sides.
Frank, ole buddy, sometimes they just go south on you and there is nothing you can do but grab another one.
Lee
Frank, skim plane both sides of your stock when you first bring it into the shop and then let it sit for at least two weeks. Then mill to dimension. If it moves then throw it out, it was no good to start with.
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