Hello All, I am a relative “beginner” in terms of what I consider “serious” woodworking, and so I am hoping the more experienced woodworkers here can help me with what I hope is a relatively simple problem. For the first time, I am using a jointer and thickness planer to mill my own lumber (maple and beech for a nice heavy duty workbench I building for my new workshop). While things have been going quite well working with somewhat smaller boards (say, 3 feet or shorter) I’ve encountered a bit of a problem with one of the longer boards I’ve tackled so far. I have a piece of beech about 55 inches long, 5 inches wide and 2 inches thick that is intended for use as one of four stretchers between the legs of my bench. I have surfaced the first face on my jointer, but have found that the board has about 1/4 inch of twist over its length. On one hand, 1/4 inch doesn’t seem like much, but on the other hand, compared to the other boards that have come out “perfectly” flat, the amount of twist I’m seeing seems rather noticeable, so I’d like to try to improve it or eliminate it entirely, if possible. Is there a technique for use on the jointer or planer (or by any other means) to eliminate twist when milling lumber to size? I wouldn’t think the planer would help, as it is my understanding that the planer will only make the second face parallel to the first. Will additional passes on the jointer eventually remove the twist (at the expense of making the board thinner, perhaps even thinner than I need it to be for its intended use)? I’ve already made two or three additional light passes on the jointer since the surface became completely smooth, and this only seems to make the board thinner without improving the twist much (if at all). Any ideas or suggestions regarding the elimination of twist during milling? Is 1/4 inch twist significant enough to be worth worrying about (at least in this situation)? The stretcher/legs of the bench will be assembled with mortise and tenon joinery, so I’m wondering if the joints will straighten the board after assembly without putting undesirable stress on the legs or stretcher. I look forward to hearing any comments anyone might be able to offer regarding the above. Thanks very much, in advance! Dru |
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
Well the 1/4" twist may not be too big of a deal in it's intended use, but your jointer should be able to remove all of the twist. When I have a twisted board I hold it level and plane the first foot or so of one end and then turn it around and do the other end. This removes the majority of the twist and then I just joint as usual. If you have a hand plane you could remove the bulk of the twist and go from there or you could possibly use a belt sander to remove the bulk of it. Hope this helps you. Peter
what a beech. i worked in a hdwd mill for a custom shop for 16 years. one of the nastiest woods that i evey encountered was the one you seem to be concerned with. this stuff seems to have a mind of its own. when joining (facing) this wood i joined off more wood than would have been removed on any other type of wood (overcompensated) prior to planing. one time over the jointer and a two or three passes thru a planer isn't going to work. i had to work this stuff. you really have to relax the belly of the board. when you are thru straighting the stuff, set it on edge and let the air get at it from all sides. and hopefully it won't be christmas morning when you find time to get back at it.
nomad
Dru,
Before you start Facing the Board, Look at the front & Back of the Board. Everybody I've Watched Holds the Front of the Board Tight Against the Table, & the Back would Have a 1/2" Twist. You Have to Finess the Board... Try to Freehand Slpitting the Twist ( If the Leading Edge is Leaning to the left, the Back Edge Should Be Leaning to the Right. ) With a 55" Board if you Bear Down on the Beginning of Your Infeed Table You Should "GET THE FEEL". Take Light Cuts. Also When You Plane the Board to Thickness Take Light Cuts, Because the Feed Rolls on Your Planer May Cause the Board to Twist Back.
Sometimes Slower is Better!!!!
Good Luck
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled