Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Apr 25, 2006 04:40am | #1

   That's pretty much the nature of these type of saws. You can make up some kerf keepers so the off cut doesn't drop down on the blade. A T or L shape can be slipped in the kerf at the start and finish of the cut. If the machine is leaning back enough, the rip won't fall off forward. I'd only do ripping on a panel saw if there was no other tool available. Usually, after a sheet has a little cut off, it's easier to handle on the table saw for ripping.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   dgreen | Apr 25, 2006 06:42am | #2

   That' what I got it for, to rough cut to a size I can deal with on the table saw. Getting too old and not enough space to deal with full sheets on the table saw. I kind of figured I'd have to make some kerf spacers but was wondering if there was some sort of accesssory for the saw that would eliminate stopping in the middle of a cut. We all know how much saws like stopping in the middle! Kind of a shame for a tool capable of a 32nd accuracy. Actually I've found it to be closer than that on a crosscut. Only recently been a problem as I have usually been able to crosscut first and then stand the panel up for the rest of the cuts, lately have had to do some long mantel parts that made that impossible. Wish money,space and employees were not a consideration! Many thanks for your response, I'll let you know if I come up with a brainstorm.

2. 
   dgreen | Apr 25, 2006 06:47am | #3

   By the way, I was'nt at all happy with the built in stand that came with the saw, bloomin thing stuck out 3 feet int the shop. I U bolted it to the wall at the top and now it sticks out less than 6". Much better. Have had no problems with wood falling forward, just gravity closing the kerf and pinching the blade.

1. 
   hammer1 | Apr 25, 2006 09:24am | #4

   I think the best accessory for these saws is a helper, better yet, delegate all sheetgoods handling and supervise. What do you like for a blade?Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   dgreen | Apr 25, 2006 11:17pm | #10

   So far I'm using the blade that came with the saw. When it's time to replace it I'll probably go with a CMT. I'm a big fan of their blades. Nice router bits too.

2. 
   forestgirl | Apr 25, 2006 07:30pm | #5

   I haven't used one of these, but certainly have had lots o' ply cut at the local Lumbermen's (they don't charge me :-)   Is there any way to build-in a little splitter-tab onto the carriage of the saw?

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   

1. 
   dgreen | Apr 25, 2006 07:48pm | #6

   Now thats a good idea! May have to be welded to the plate, sure sounds good on paper ! Soon as I finish my coffee I'll go out and take a look. Many thanks he says as he slaps his forehead and says "why did'nt I think of that".

1. 
   try50772 | Apr 25, 2006 08:40pm | #7

   SSC saws have the Riving knife right after the blade and they rip very well.
   Check them out and see if you can set one up on your unit.

1. 
   dgreen | Apr 25, 2006 11:14pm | #9

   Thanks for the tip. I went to their web site and looked at the exploded parts view, the H model looks to be exactly the same as Milwaukees! I'd bet dollars to doughnut holes they make it for Milwaukee. Could'nt see any views of the riving knife, I'm going to take forestgirls advice and retrofit my own.

2. 
   dgreen | Apr 25, 2006 11:10pm | #8

   I think that will work!! Lots of room and a plenty beefy plate to work with. Think I'll cut a slot for the splitter to stick through so I can adjust it and change it out if I wind up using a blade with a different kerf. Many thanks!!