Replies

1. 
   Steinmetz | Feb 03, 2006 12:32pm | #1

   Kal, Have you tried removing the router's base plate? That will add a almost 3/16" to bit height

   OR, Recessing the underside of table by routing out 2/3rds of the table's thickness? (another 3/8"

   OR, Recessing and applying a 1/8" flush aluminum plate at the top and under cutting the bottom to receive the router as a 'drop in'

   This plate can be attached to the router in place of the original base plate but should be square and not too much wider than the original (for rigdity)
   THIS APPLICATION WILL GIVE YOU A NET GAIN OF 1/8" beyond the original un mounted router's bit projection.

   Do NOT try to gain bit height by not seating the bit all the way into the collet!

   Don't use extenders if you value your eyes, face, hands and other body parts. Steinmetz.

   Edited 2/3/2006 4:40 am ET by Steinmetz

   
   

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   Edited 2/3/2006 3:49 pm ET by Steinmetz

1. 
   loucarabasi | Feb 07, 2006 02:34pm | #4

   exactly, I have a 3inch scar on my shoulder from one of these xtenders

2. 
   Kal | Feb 07, 2006 10:33pm | #5

   Thanks all for the ideas.

   I am chalking this one up to one of those things that looks good on paper but is not so good in reality.

   I took the base plate off my router before I mounted it on the melamine I am using for the top. It still does not give me the height I want. I was hoping to avoid the whole insert/recessing/new baseplate work.

   I have given up on the extender. It is just to dangerous in my opinion.

   I have ended up my raising router to its max height, mounting my cutter as high up on the shaft as I can, and raising the bits shaft up to about 80% of fullly seated.

   I have 2 routers mounted on the same top. I saw it done in a book somewhere but all they said was "mount the router". They apparently have a router with another 1" of travel than my Makitas. My ultimate goal is to have the routers set to do a run of cabinet doors so that I do not have to change any settings while doing the job and leave them set until the kitchen is done so that I can run another door if I mess up on one. I am trying to eliminate the errors that creep in when resetting my bits between operations.

   I know what the real answer is...$. I probably need an accurate shaper. I have been looking at a bottom end Grizzly but do not have the funds now. I hope to finish this kitchen for a contractor friend of mine and take the proceeds and buy one. When I look at the money involved I see it this way: I have had the Makita for some time, but to buy one would be $250.00, the second router is a Harbor Freight clone of my Makita and it cost $80.00, Lumber for the table and fence hardware cost $20.00, router speed controls are $25.00, bit extender that didn't work cost $25.00, and so on. If I just spend the cash and get a Grizzly Shaper for $800.00 I will be far better off in the long run.

   Live and learn.

   Kal

    

1. 
   forestgirl | Feb 07, 2006 11:30pm | #6

   I haven't read every word of this thread, so I hope I'm not too far off track, but you might want to look at the Veritas steel RT top.  I use it and have no problem changing bits above the table and getting the full use of all the bits.  It has other advantages too.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   OLDWING | Feb 03, 2006 03:35pm | #2

   I have had a Makita 3612 for 20+ years, and the only way I can mount it in a router table is as Steinmetz described.  I've used methods 2 & 3, recessing a hole in the table and using a 1/4" phenolic plate inset into the table.  I much prefer using the inset plate. 

    

   Bruce

3. 
   lamadriver | Feb 07, 2006 10:17am | #3

   I have also used the drop in style router arrangement using a 1/4" clear acrylic base plate about 12 x 12 to replace the router base. Works great and allows for quick bit change and full use of bit length. Previous advice about extenders and using full shaft inside collet is sound advice, 20,000 to 25,000 RPM will spit a loose bit at you faster than you'll ever move. Additional advantage of my clear acrylic base is using it for freehand without removing base and still being able to see work area for quick round over, etc: Good luck and be safe.

   "I know there's a lot of money in woodworking because that's where a lot of my money is"

4. 
   JohnWW | Feb 08, 2006 06:28am | #7

   Try any Porter Cable router, their collets extend way beyond the base, I think further than any other brand. Their new #890 router is designed for using in router tables, it has both above the table bit changes and height adjustment.

   John W.