I have a 10 yr. old Minimax S45. I was using it the other day and the starter switch kicked off. I thought it was my breaker but it wasn’t. The saw now will start up but will only run at about 1/2 speed for abut 20 sec. and then it cuts off. The saw is on a dedicated 220 line with a 20 amp circuit breaker. The saw is wired for 230 and draws 9 amps. It has a magnetic starter with overload protection that I suspect is the culprit. Does anyone know how I can pull it and test it? Any other thoughts on what might be wrong would be appreciated. Thanks.
Bill
Replies
Dear Bill,
WOW! Those are nice! I looked into those a while ago still out my price range. Check out this group, they are most helpful:
http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/MiniMax-USA/
Best,
John
J.,
Thanks fo the great suggestion. I did not know such a group existed. I am sure someone there can help. Thanks again.
Bill
You're Welcome!John
Bill,
Classic symptom of a sticking centrifugal starting switch in the motor, a very common problem, although a failed capacitor is a possibility. If the centrifugal switch sticks, the motor will draw high amps which is why the magnetic switch kicked off just the way it should have.
Sometimes you can clear the switch by just blowing out the motor with compressed air. A proper fix will mean taking the end cover off the motor, and then removing and cleaning up the switch, it probably won't need to be replaced. If you don't want to deal with it, this is a simple repair for a motor shop.
If the saw was running properly at full speed for a few minutes and then suddenly quit, the more likely culprit is a failed capacitor which will also cause starting problems once the capacitor has failed. If the capacitor has failed, it will need to be replaced, again a simple job for a motor shop. Sometimes, but not always, a capacitor will burn up a bit, or split, or lose a wire if they have failed so a visual inspection of the capacitor may give you a clue to the problem.
John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine.
Edited 7/17/2006 12:54 pm ET by JohnWW
John,
Thanks for the advice. I don't have an air compressor, but I have been looking for an excuse to get one. If not I am sure a friend who has every tool known to man will loan me his. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again.
Bill
I just edited my message to give some more information on capacitor problems.
John W.
John,
I had a similar problem with my Delta Dust Collector. In the manual it said not to use an air compressor but rather the exhaust from a shop vac. It seemed to work for a time, but one would think that the exhaust from a shop vac contained a lot of "stuff" that might not be good for the motor. Is there a way to use a compressor that would not hurt the motor?Rod
Rod,
I've suggested using a shop vac in the past also. Once the vac has run for a few seconds the dust is cleared out of the hose and the air is clean and safe to use, it has been filtered through the vac after all.
The risk in using high pressure air from a small nozzle is that, in theory at least, you might force dust or chips further into the machine, past the seals on a bearing for instance, rather than blowing them out. To be honest, I think the risk of driving dust further in is slight on most woodworking machines.
So the safe approach is to use a high pressure air nozzle with a bit of care, backing off a bit and keeping the air stream a bit "soft" by feathering the trigger rather than placing the tip of the nozzle tightly against against the openings to the motor and holding the nozzle valve wide open.
John W.
Bill
I had the exact same problem on saw motor. I blew the motor out with compressed air real well, especially around the contacts, and it was the problem. Runs fine now.
Jeff
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