Replies

1. 
   LeeGrindinger | Oct 08, 2006 04:29pm | #1

   That sounds like a sharpening issue. A sharp tool will leave a quite smooth surface. How do you sharpen your turning tools?

   Lee

1. 
   NJSRB | Oct 08, 2006 09:51pm | #2

   Ok - now I have to admit that I am a novice at sharpening as well as wood turning . . .   :)

   I've tried two methods - hand (with a file) and a benchtop grinder.  I was a little concerned about using the grinder as it is fairly fast (3,450) RPM and I was worried about the temper of the tools.  However, I had trouble getting a nice rounded edge using the file on the gouges.  Perhaps I gave up too soon!

   It is also quite possible that I am not sharpening often enough.  What do you think?

1. 
   LeeGrindinger | Oct 09, 2006 02:14am | #3

   A grinder is fine, it's what I use, but they leave quite a burr that needs removal and for that I'll often use sandpaper. Obviously the sharper the tool the better the cut. Using a grinder for this requires some touch but if you keep the tool moving and pay close attention overheating should not be a problem. Finish with 220 grit sandpaper and it will be sharp enough for turning tools. Dod a search here for "scary sharp" which is how sandpaper is used for sharpening.Lee

1. 
   NJSRB | Oct 09, 2006 02:52am | #5

   Thanks so much for the tips.  This gives me something to go on.

   Edited 10/8/2006 7:54 pm ET by NJSRB

1. 
   BruceS | Oct 09, 2006 03:51am | #6

   Shearing, shear scraping and scraping.  Of these you want to Shear and thats best accomplished with very sharp chisles and keeping the Bevel of the chisle in contact with the turning piece.   If you turn shivings like you would get with, forgive me, a potato pealer your shearing. If your getting sawdust your scraping and that will not produce the best finish possible.  Shearing action forces the bevel into the lumber with a downward force and that acts in a way to keep the wood from tearing and splintering and a VERY big suppressor of the ugly catch.  Granted the contact area of the bevel is minimal, anywhere from .020 to .060 depending on the amount of material being removed.

   Get a good turning book by Raffin, Conover or Darlow and do a lot of reading and then practice.Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

2. 
   Patto | Oct 09, 2006 05:58am | #7

   If not confident on a grinder, a Kiwi once suggested to me that a 12" piece of 3/4 reinforcing steel was great to practice sharpening on - much cheaper than your gouges and hard enough to give a good feel.

   dave

2. 
   Napie | Oct 09, 2006 02:49am | #4

   I am in no way an expert turner but I have about 1800 bowls under my belt over the past 15 years, and I never use anything but a high speed grinder.  I do not remove the burr or do any touch up after grinding.  Learning to sharpen was the most important part of learning to turn.  Proper technique with the tools is the next thing after sharp tools required to cut clean on end grain.  Richard Raffens videos and books are great, he is the best instructor I have seen.  Get some green chunks of firewood and practice, a lot.  Green wood cuts easily and is free to waste.