I bought a quart Minwax Polycrylic to try on a workbench. Has anybody used it on “real” furniture (kitchen table or other “high traffic” piece”)
Just Curious,
Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
I bought a quart Minwax Polycrylic to try on a workbench. Has anybody used it on “real” furniture (kitchen table or other “high traffic” piece”)
Just Curious,
Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
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Replies
I used 4 coats of it on a set of sliding doors and their wooden track, built to enclose shelves in a day-care center. After a year I'm not aware of any noticeable wear or problem. This was a volunteer job not a pro one, so I can't make a good comparison with other things, but I thought it looks fine, and it certainly was less noxious than most varnish.
I just put a coat on the work surface.This Polycrylic is so much like the old (8-10 years ago) Parks water based "Urethane" it's not funny. If this stuff is substantially different than the Parks, I'll drink it...It smells the same, looks the same and brushes the same. Dries just as fast too.I used the Parks on my previous work (assembly) bench and itlasted 8 years (2 coats) - yellow glue would not bond to it. Back then I didn't use Polyurethane glue so I don't know what to expect...I won't use the stuff on fine furniture but it's great for "high traffic" applications (Parks used to sell a hardener for floor applications).Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
I've used it a ton due to the fast drying, easy clean-up and no smell. Family room entertainment center is holding up fine after 6 years.
I've used it quite a numer of times and like it- Be aware that what you see is what you'll get, ie, no darkening or softening in appearance- I've used it on counter surfaces, jewelry boxes, and like that- Seems very durable and, as noted above, it's not as noxious as oil bases-
I just finished a, er, finish test for my kitchen cabinets with Minwax Polycrylic, General Finishes EF water-base, GF Oil/Urethane Topcoat and Rocker WunderCote, all over BLO on cherry and maple. The Minwax won hands-down. Of course, given my, um, sterling expertise at finish application, this is as likely the result of pilot error as anything else. The EF came out surprisingly crappy; the other two I just didn't like as much.
What bad things will happen if I use the Minwax over BLO without a barrier coat of shallac?
"What bad things will happen if I use minwax over BLO...The republicans will take over the government, forget the "of, by, and for" the people part, attack other countries, drive up the deficit... oops, that's already happened... :-) (I guess someone painted over some really nice wood)I've just used the Minwax over latex paint - no issue there. I built some shelves for the baby's room (12 years ago) and now those shelves are in my shop with junk on them. They still look great (just dusty) At that time, I used Park's version of the water based "urethane". (Minwax didn't make it back then.)I've also used it over oil based stain with no issue. Never tried it over BLO. I have put oil based urethane over BLO without any difficulty - provided the BLO is completely dry (not tacky at all).I don't see an issue - but others may disagree. Do you have a test piece to see if there are any short-term issues?
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
What is BLO? Board Liver Oil?
Boiled Linseed Oil. Gives great depth to wood. Mix it 50/50 with turpentine. Let dry. Lay the rags/brushes in an open place to dry or dunk them in water when you are done.Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Minwax ..
Just me..
They make a good product for 'The rest of us'.. Pros want something better but.. I'm NOT a pro at finishing...
I used it about 4 years ago over Watco on a dining table that is now a computer desk, it has held up fine.
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