Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 15, 2006 06:58am | #1

   Are you saying that the maple table top is going to be used on the patio?  If so, then you need to revise your finishing schedule significantly, since 2 or 3 or even 5 or 6 coats of Minwax wipe on polyurethane varnish won't last a season if it gets any sun at all.  Wipe on finishes are much thinner than brush on finish so that it takes roughly three to equal one brushed on coat.  And, maple isn't a particularly good outdoor wood, so it needs plenty of protection--you probably can't just let it weather to grey like you could teak or mahogany.

   The only varnish that comes close to standing up in outdoor sun, is marine spar varnish.  And, just because a varnish says things like Helmsman or Man O War, doesn't make them good for use in sunlight.  There are three varnishes that have stood the test of time in demanding uses.  These are Epifanes Gloss, Interlux Schooner, and Pettit Captain's.  You will only find these at true boating supply places, including on line.  The directions call for at least 6 coats of brushed on (nearly full strength) varnish.  Be sure to coat both top and bottom of table tops approximately equally.  Also expect to to maintenance regularly.  Touch up any dings quickly, and apply a fresh coat of varnish about once a year, less often if you have lots of shade, more often if you are in the southern tier of states. 

   Paint is much much more durable than clear finishes for outdoor furniture. 

1. 
   10saw | Dec 15, 2006 07:07am | #2

   Hi,Sorry. I meant that I'm just finishing it outdoors as opposed to a nice clean spray booth etc..It will be in doors exclusivley.Thanks for the info though...It will come in handy on other projects.10saw

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 15, 2006 07:54am | #3

   Sorry.  I will suggest that even for indoors 3 wipe on coats is pretty sparse.  I would go to 5 or 6, which is about equivalent of 2 fairly thin brushed on coats, by no means an excessive film thickness, though with much more polyurethane varnish begins to look a bit cloudy.  Those extra coats will probably remove some of the visible marks that may have been result of differential penetration of the surface on those first couple of coats.  Polyurethane is difficult to rub out to achieve an even sheen, but it can be done.  Wait a month for the finish to fully cure.  If you have dust nibs you want to remove, sand very lightly with 600 grit paper, and 1000 grit.   Then even up the sheen with a fine rubbing compound.  I hesitate to recommend this rubbing out with a wiped on finish since it is very easy to cut through the final coat.  A traditional resin varnish is quite a bit easier to rub out evenly.  And, although brushing full strength varnish is more challenging, and appears to leave the surface with more initial defects, the thicker film makes the final rubbing out process much easier. 

1. 
   10saw | Dec 15, 2006 07:42pm | #4

   Thanks so much for the advice.I'll give it a couple more coats and be careful about too thinck and cloudy.I wish I had more control over the environment I applied it and would have tried the brush on but the longer thicker open time would have collected dust.The wipe on was dry to the touch in about 30 minutes yesterday.Thanks again,10saw

1. 
   cadiddlehopper | Dec 16, 2006 12:24am | #7

   If the weather is hot or the sun is heating the surface as you spread the varnish, that may be the problem. I have had trouble in hot weather. It seems to go tacky very quickly and creates streaks. The first job I did with it was a desk top during mild weather. It was fantastically easy and results were excellent.Cadiddlehopper

2. 
   Gretchen | Dec 16, 2006 06:07am | #8

   When I talk about a wipe on varnish finish to someone who hasn't done it before, I always say "Don't give up on what it looks like after 2-3 coats. Mine always looks awful".  I think 6 coats is a minimum number of wipe- on coats and 8 for a table top is almost a must.Gretchen

2. 
   Dan1120 | Dec 15, 2006 09:56pm | #5

   I use Minwax wipe on poly a lot (Only satin for me). What I always do after the final coat (usually 3rd) is rub in Minwax paste wax with 0000 steel wool. That will take out the tiny dust bumps and even out the sheen. After it dries, polish with an old cotton towel.

3. 
   mrbird90 | Dec 15, 2006 10:10pm | #6

   I usually apply 4-6 coats of Mimwax PU and sand with 600 grit between coats and after the last coat thouroughly dries I rub the final finish with a folded square of brown paper bag from the grocery store. Usually the heavy duty bags have a rough surface. Does a great job. Only problem is finding stores that still furnish paper bags.

4. 
   Troy | Dec 16, 2006 06:18am | #9

   For table tops 6 coats or more is a good suggestion. I have done this and it works well with this product. Since it is a wipe on finish the coats are really thin. After it has cured thourghly gently rub it out with 0000 steel wool and paste wax and if you want it to be glossy follow it up with a buffing compound. There have been several excellent articles in FW mag. about doing this. I am sure you will be fine.

   Good luck

   Troy

1. 
   danmart | Dec 16, 2006 06:09pm | #10

   Reading the discussion on "wipe on PU" I see many others using steel wool between coats and 400-600grit wet and dry paper. They work well. I have used them and continue to use them today. For the past several years, I have changed over to scotch-brite pads(maroon, grey, and white). They just last so long, dip in water and clean, and they don't leave little steel nibs in the wood. This may sound "over cautious" but I learned the hard way building a longrifle in curly maple. I rubbed it down with 0000 wool and applied my aqua fortis only to find all these little spots. Hours later and ruined carving I found the pads to be the solution. Just  a suggestion and a question. Do people dislike the pads or just have not tried them??

1. 
   Troy | Dec 16, 2006 09:51pm | #11

   Good call on the pads I was going to use them on my last project but my local supplier was out of them.Troy