Replies

1. 
   Dano | Jun 27, 2005 06:15pm | #1

   Scott,

   FWIW, about six or seven years back I posted about my impressions with Min Wax's "Wipe On Poly".  Needless to say, I incorporated it into my finish repretoire.  I confess to not having added dyes or tints to it and would be reluctant to do so.  The "unknown" being how it would affect the formulation.  You might want to go to Min Wax's website and see what they recommend.

   Dano

   "Form and Function are one." - Frank L. Wright
2. 
   DougF | Jun 27, 2005 08:59pm | #2

   I was really surprised it was No. 1.  I used it once.  Put on two coats and then sanded it down and went back to lacquer for that particular project.  I found that it streaked and had a somewhat muddy appearance.  I don't know if it was a bad batch or was just having a bad hair day.  I doubt it was my technique since you can't really  screw it up.  I now mix my own. 

1. 
   Dave | Jun 28, 2005 06:19pm | #5

   ACtually you can screw it up!  I found that I was wiping on too little at a time!  That gave me the same blotchy dry patch look you described.  Get the rag really wet, or just pour the stuff on the wood and start spreading it around.  Once it's all on, wipe smooth, and quit fussing. 

   I've had the best look (going for the wet look finish?) by brushing on a coat of normal poly first, sanding with 320, and then several coats of wipe on. 

    

3. 
   HowardAcheson | Jun 28, 2005 02:48am | #3

   Couple of comments. First you can make your own wipe-on poly by using Minwax Fast Dry Poly and mixing it 50/50 with mineral spirits. Same stuff and cheaper.

   Next, it takes more coats to build a protective finish. Figure about six coats of wipe-on is equivilent to about three coats of brushed on.

   Avoid tinting it with dyes and pigments. What you end up with is "Polyshades". I leaves a very variable coloring on wood as the color is dependent on the thickness of the film. Any variation and you have an uneven color. Multiple coats only make it worse. It is best by far to color the wood separately then overcoat it with your finish of choice.

   Howie.........
4. 
   Telemike | Jun 28, 2005 08:17am | #4

   I've used the minwax for years. I use it mainly because it's available locally. When any kind of finish get even a little old, I cure it on old plywood or in a al foil pie pan and toss it so I like using a finish that I can get at the local hardware.

   With walnut, I use a little watco underneath to warm up the tone before I use the wipeon. With maple, especially figured, I use some aniline die first to accent the grain. A recent finewood working had this trick.

   I never like to put pigment into the topcoats because it muddies the natural grain of the wood. Then again, I don't use stain very much at all.

   To me, the wipe on poly is the best substitute for catalyzed lacquer that the the hobby woodworker can use. I'm glad to see that I bought the right brand for once!