Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Jul 25, 2003 05:11am | #1

   If possible, mount the mirror with clips or inside of a frame.  Gluing the mirror has three drawbacks:

   1. Replacing the mirror if it breaks or the silvering deteriorates is going to be a much harder job, it will probably mean making a new door.  From experience, the silvering on the edge of the glass will start turning black after a few years of use, especially along any part of the edge that gets handled to swing the door open.

   2. Some adhesives will attack the silvering, turning it black or making it peel off.  I'd check with a glass shop about the proper adhesive and whether the mirror has to have a protective coating on the back surface to protect the silvering from the adhesive.

   3.  If the mirror is glued to a backing, even a small amount of warpage in the backing material will create a noticeable distortion in the mirror's reflection, creating a "fun house mirror" effect.  I don't think any half inch thick sheet material hung from hinges along one edge will stay flat enough over time, especially if one surface has a mirror glued to it.

   Half inch thick stock is only slightly thicker than the depth of the holes you will be boring for the hinges, the holes will have to be drilled before the mirror stock is glued on if you go that route.  Euro style hinges are usually used with 3/4 inch thick stock. 

   Hope this helps, John W. 

1. 
   HenryVIII | Jul 28, 2003 06:11am | #8

   To keep the edges of a mirror from blackening after a few years, sand the edges with 400 to 600 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper.  You don't have to sand much, but I like to see a little bevel on the edge of the mirror. 

   The problem starts when the mirror is cut.  There is a virtually invisible jagged edge which is left when the scored mirror is broken.  The very small cracks in the gray covering of the silvered surface permit oxygen to get in, and the silver oxide is black.

   Using sandpaper is called "seaming" by glass workers, and doing so keeps you from "The Mother of All Paper Cuts" when you handle it, as well as preventing the silvering from deteriorating.

   You might check into "Tape-Backed Mirror" from a glass company.  You won't find it at a big box store, at least in the ones in North Texas.

   Hope this helps.

1. 
   JohnWW | Jul 28, 2003 11:32pm | #9

   Enery,

   Good information, thanks.

   John W.

2. 
   ian | Jul 25, 2003 08:20am | #2

   A rail and style door would be much much lighter.

   If you adopt this construction you could mount the mirror as follows as shown in the attached drawing.

   
1. 
   Boxduh | Jul 25, 2003 01:34pm | #3

   For some reason, neither of your pics open for me. 

2. 
   Boxduh | Jul 25, 2003 01:40pm | #4

   I looked carefully at the Robern medicine cabinet I have.  Its mirrored door has a mirror on each side of the door, and a heavy duty Blum hinge set is used to mount it.  The core of the door looks to be an extruded aluminum frame with corner keys, and the hinge stile side is wide enough for hinge mounting.  The core is about 1/2" thick in total.

   I have what I think is a complete Blum hardware catalog, but the hinge I see on the Robern cab is not in it.  What would be a good source for special hinges like what I see?

1. 
   ian | Jul 26, 2003 05:30am | #6

   a second attempt at attaching the picture

   Edit:  Sorry all - the image is OK on my PC but on attachment it apperas to have become corrupted.  I wont try again.

   Edited 7/25/2003 11:03:25 PM ET by ian

   
1. 
   Boxduh | Jul 27, 2003 09:11pm | #7

   So here is the project, in pictures.  I deal with Scherr's Cabinets and Doors in Minot, ND, for KD cabinets, and they say that mirrors glued with mirror adhesive to 5/8" substrate has been working well for them for 30 years now, in shipping medicine cabinets.

   This concept of mine will mimic a high-end Robern cab when done.  It fits with its "flanged" faceframe into stud cavities in the bathroom wall.  The 1/2" thickness "flanges" will flush out to the surface of the adjoining drywall, and the whole thing will be cased with trim on three sides, and with a Corian sink backsplash above the vanity top.

   The pic of the hinge is taken inside a Robern meds cab I have in my home.

   
3. 
   JOSEPH2238 | Jul 25, 2003 03:20pm | #5

   Mr. Micro

   I agree fully with john's recommendations.  Every cabinet door I have ever seen uses clips or a molding to hold the glass in a rabbit.

   One trick that I like to do is to put a dab of silicone in the corners and flatten it down, let it dry over night, then set the glass.  This will stop the glass from rattling when the door closes.

   Joe Phillips

   Plastics pay the bills, Woodworking keeps me sane!