I am building my first piece of Mission style furniture, a dining room sideboard. I am using quarter-sawn white oak and am wondering how I should finish it. Most of my woodworking experience to date has been with Cherry, and I have simply applied a clear finish to let the color and character of the Cherry show and age. However, with this piece I want to get that Mission style finish. I appreciate any help.
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A very good finishing method for Arts and Crafts furniture can be found at Homestead Finishing web site. If you do some searching around you will find their recipe for the Mission finish and the products needed to do it. It seems like a lot of steps but the result is great; and it is not difficult.
Look here: http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/mission_oak.htm
By the way, don't skimp on hardward for the sideboard. The big hinges and pulls are necessary to get the look of the original. Try Rockler or Renovator's Supply for these. Unfortunately, the handmade copper hardware is way too rich for me (hundreds of dollars for the sideboard).
That article is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the pointer, and the tips on the hardware.
Although not in favor with most, I fume all of my QSWO and finish with oil/varnish and Balck Bison Tutor Oak. The homestaead formula is good but I like the fumed approach better.
Fuming is authentic, but has a few drawbacks. Of course first is the hassle of dealing with some rather noxious fumes. Secondly, and more important in my view is the desirability of using oak from single trees, at least where they would be seen together. Chemical treatments are tricky, and in part depend on the particular makeup of the specific wood being treated. No point in fuming, and then having to use dye or toner to pull the colors of various boards together.
Matching can be an issue if you are not careful in the selection of your boards. But the same can also be true when staining although not to the same degree. Granted, it takes a little time to tent the work and fumes can be an issue if not done correctly but, in my opinion, it takes less time to fume a piece than it takes to stain that same piece and with less mess and expense. I;I've had such great success with fuming that I find it difficult to justify a change. I suspect that I'll reconsider the first time things don't go according to plan.
I don't want to be on record as saying that fuming is a totally bad idea, just that this is another example of why, on every project you need to have planned the finish before buying the wood. This is one aspect that is a lot easier for those who buy wood in large lots to specify matching lumber than for those who have to take pot luck at lumber dealers for whom the hobbiest is a nuisance disordering the piles, and wanting to leave them with "shorts".
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