Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Aug 27, 2002 07:16am | #1

   One of the outfits, I think maybe Fastrack (sp?) sells a kit that is purported to fix the problem.  I'll take a look in Google and see what I can find.

   Here ya go:  http://www.woodworkingfasttrak.com/detail.asp?pid=44&parid=5

   Can't vouch for it one way or the other -- my Incra 1000 doesn't have that problem :-) but this looks like it might work.  $14.99 it's probably worth the gamble.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

   
   

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   Edited 8/27/2002 12:21:31 AM ET by forest_girl

2. 
   mike4244 | Aug 28, 2002 03:14am | #2

   Drill and tap for brass flat head screw, you may have countersink too. Adjust screws so the miter gauge slides parrallell to the slot and glides easily . Sometimes two screws are needed, one near the front and one near the gauge head. If the miter gauge is used extensively slight adjustments to the screw are needed every ten years.

   Just kidding, I did this for my uncle on an old rockwell saw about 15 years ago. Uncle is gone but miter gauge still slop free.

3. 
   TonyBarr | Aug 28, 2002 02:02pm | #3

   I used the dimpling method (pointed punch at the edge of the bar to displace metal and then file down to size) and found that once I was able to fill the clearance with this displaced metal, that when I moved the miter gage through the length of the slot, the bar would now bind at the "tight" spots, indicating that the slot is not perfectly straight or at a constant width.  My solution was to bring down the high points in my miter slot (on the table saw) carefully with 80 grit sand paper.  It did not take much to get the gage to move smoothly through the slot.  Keep this in mind with whatever method you use to reduce the miter bar to slot clearance.  The clearance may have been designed in by the mfg to prevent binding due to slot variation.

   Tony