I need to make about 30 shadow boxes and am getting ready to buy a miter jig for my table saw. I’ve narrowed it down between the Dubby sliding sled-type jig, and the Osborne EB-3. Can any users of thes 2 jigs give me advice on how well they work on when cutting 45 deg. miters when the work piece is stood on edge (as in making shadow boxes)? I would like to know if the fences of both are set at exact right angles to the flat surface of the table. Also, what is the height of the fences? Any other particulars in likes, dislikes, etc., would be appreciated.
Thanks, GP
Replies
I really think you are better off making your own fixture rarther than buying something. The skills learned will push the learning curve along a lot faster. Someday you will look back and say..."Geez! I could have made this thing with scraps and saved $100!" There's a few good books on fixture making that are worth their weight in gold. One especially good one is by Sandor Nagyszalanczy in Taunton press.
GP,
I have owned a left side Dubby for many years. It works very well, any sled reduces the friction and gives you the longer fence and makes the cutting easier. The fence is solid and the sliding bar for repeats is accurate and easy to adjust and fine tune. My only complaint is the quality of the Dubby's materials: Fiber board base is showing wear (edge chips, bangs and moisture too), the marking strip started loosing its markings right away (I've added scratches in key places used), the sliding bar is pitting and the lock down T causes over-wear on the bottom channel. Its Not a tool for a Lifetime.
Have you looked at the Incra's
Enjoy, Roy
Sorry that I cannot answer you directly.
I make my own jigs and fixtures from odd pieces laying around the shop. If you are cutting the miters on the ends of the strips,I would make the fixture to slide on the rip fence. This will insure that the stock is fed without wobble. I would make a 0 clearance insert for the saw blade and double check that the fence is in good alignment Be sure to pull the sled all the way back so that the end of the part is always indexed from the solid table surface.In mitering end grain,I like to make a first cut on all parts,followed by the final kiss of the saw blade to final size.An extra cut,but for me,makes a smoother miter.
Hope that you find this useful.
¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬Pat¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
I don't have either of those miter jigs, but I have made what amounts to large shadowboxes (for displaying sports jerseys). I use my Incra 1000 miter gauge, with an auxiliary fence.
"I would like to know if the fences of both are set at exact right angles to the flat surface of the table." The Incra was dead-on when I assembled it.
"...what is the height of the fences?" IMO, an auxiliary fence is the way to go anyway. By using and auxiliary fence, you can cut a zero-clearance slot in the fence to insure a clean cut on your stock.
If you don't have a nice, tight-fitting miter gauge for your saw, you could kill two birds with one stone, and get one, then fit it with just the right fence for your project.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled