I’m trying to cut off a small 45 degree piece from the end of a 1/4″ thick by 2″ wide piece of maple. The 45 degree angle is on the 1/4″ side, not the 2″ side (i.e. I’m making a box, not a picture frame). The ultimate goal is to use veneer keys to strengthen the miter joint. Mainly I’m doing it to how well it works and maybe have a cool looking box at the end of the day :-).
I can consistently get this cut right if I do it in the middle of the board, but I’m having trouble getting the cut right on the end. The saw wants very badly to drift towards the end of the board. Again, this is the same saw that doesn’t drift in the middle of the board, so the issue is probably not with the saw itself, but with my technique.
Any suggestions?
To the man with a hammer, all the world is a nail.
Replies
Yeah, if the saw doesn't have roughly the same resistance on both sides it will tend to drift. I would recommend using a block plane on the ends instead of the saw.
Good luck
Bob
You might try a Disc sander. Thats the way I tweek in picture frames. Another way is on the router table with a 45 degree bit and a using a miter gauge or sliding shaper jig in the miter slot.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
I'm going to assume that you are using a cutoff saw. Back your material up with a scrap of 3/4" material. The same would hold true with a "hand miter saw".
Ray
Backing up the material with a larger piece of scrap is a great idea; one of those "doh! why didn't I think that" things. Thanks!
I am using a hand saw, btw.
Thanks to all of you for the suggestions!To the man with a hammer, all the world is a nail.
Max
Since you're using a handsaw, why not use this opportunity to make a shooting board, and shoot it at 45° to make it perfect. When I'm mitering, I cut proud of the line with the saw, and shoot it to the scribe to make it perfect. Works great every time.
Jeff
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