Replies

1. 
   fredsmart48 | Oct 31, 2002 12:35am | #1

    go to the General Discussion  read that thead  mitering drawer molding 

1. 
   sorethum1 | Oct 31, 2002 12:49am | #2

   Thanks, but that thread deals more with a face molding.  I can't saw a kerf directly into an outside corner of a desktop, can I?  I'm also concerned about gluing after cutting, because it may be difficult to line up.  My tongue and groove fits snuggly over a 5' length.  If it doesn't line up just right, I would need to tap the end to move it, which would likely damage the end.  But even before this, I need to be very accurate in the mitering.  I'm just wondering what different techniques people use.  Todd

1. 
   Alan | Oct 31, 2002 02:51am | #3

   Todd,

   As in the other discussion--a shooting board.

   Alan

1. 
   Birkinshaw | Nov 06, 2002 01:10am | #4

   Allan, excuse my ignorance, but what is a shooting board?

1. 
   Alan | Nov 06, 2002 10:19pm | #6

   Birk,

   A shooting board is a tool that makes it so the stock will meet the sole of a plane at any angle you might want (generally ninety or forty-five degrees) so the plane will cut a perfectly true and flat end on the stock.

   Basically it's just a large flat board (the ramp; plywood is a good choice) another flat board, a little smaller than the ramp (the base; plywood again, but you should put an edge on it so you can plane it perfectly straight) and a fence, with another straight edge, on top of the base fixed so it meets the edge of the base at the wanted angle.

   You attach the base to the ramp leaving enough room to one side for a plane to lie on its side and run up and down on the ramp with its sole in contact with the base.  Again, the edge of the base against which the plane will run must be perfectly straight.  I usually use plywood for the base but put a wood edge on it of something like poplar or hardwood.  Then just fix the fence to the base at exactly the wanted angle.

   Before using it for the first time, set your plane on the ramp as it will be in use, and shave down the edge of the base and the end of the fence until the plane stops cutting.  Do this all along the edge of the base.  This is called "running in" and it creates a little ledge on the bottom of the base edge where the plane cannot cut.  In use the plane runs against the little ledge while you slowly advance the stock into the plane.

   I think it was on this board that there was a lengthy discussion of shooting boards a few weeks or months ago.  You might want to check in the archives under "shooting boards" or "picture frames/framing" (if my faulty memory serves).  If you cannot find anything there, David Charlesworth has an excellent section on shooting boards in one of his Furniture Making Techniques.  I don't remember if it's in volume one or two.

   Alan

2. 
   Birkinshaw | Nov 07, 2002 03:00am | #7

   Alan, thanks for your explanation. I will look into it further....I have a hell of a time getting my miters just right.

3. 
   fredsmart48 | Nov 07, 2002 06:44pm | #8

   this might help. they hot pictures

   http://www.millard.demon.co.uk/planingpoints/shootingboards/shootingindex.htm

4. 
   sorethum1 | Nov 07, 2002 11:10pm | #9

   Let me try to explain what I just did, and would do the next time.  My hacksaw type miter saw cut very accurate 45's, but the trick was getting the exact length right on the last two edge pieces.  That is, the two opposing long pieces were cut to length and mitered.  Then, one end of each side piece was then mitered.  That left the final 2 miters, which I cut just a little long so I could creep up on the length.  I sort of regret that, since I think I may have been able to nail it.  But the trick was creeping up on the length.  I used a sanding block and 60 grit paper to take off a little at a time.  The problem was I rolled over slightly on the edges, and the miter line was not precisely straight (though very close, and I'm hoping the grain filler I use on the mahogony will help).  What I would do the next time is clamp or stick 45 degree offcuts against the sides of the miter so that I didn't roll over the edges.  This seems obvious to me now.  Todd

2. 
   GeeSeaWhy | Nov 06, 2002 09:53pm | #5

   How about this approach: cut the long sides a bit over, glue them on and then carefully trim them to size with a fine saw then a paring chisel. Now you can cut the short sides and sand or plane them down to exact length using the top itself as a reference. There was an article in FWW a couple of months ago that used a technique like this - Fine Furniture from Plywood.

   Good luck.

   Graeme