I’m shopping for my first miter saw for trim and cabinet work and I’m curious whether the laser guide is a worthwhile feature or just clever marketing. Is a dual bevel saw worth the extra price or can get just as accurate a cut by flipping the piece? Lastly, I’ve been reading other posted messages, I was surprised to read that most are of the opinion that a 10″ is plenty big, the 12″ is overkill. It also seems there are a lot of satisfied Makita 10″ customers out there. Any other recommendations?
Darge
Replies
the dual bevel is a great feature because you'll find that regardless of the saw you buy, it is not easy to set it over and over again and still maintain that exact angle. even half a degree off in either direction can mess you up. when you're doing crown you can leave the bevel where it is and flip your work so that all you're adjusting is the miter (which is easier to adjust and generally more accurate.)
I'll bet a ten inch hitachi would be great for you, one reason is that the blades are alittle cheaper than those twelve inch behemoths. but the new one is a laser, and frankly, I don't care for it. the laser line is almost an eighth of an inch thick and kinda hard on the eyes.
with a little practise, you'll find you can use a mechanical pencil and split that line just by eye. Even us bespectacled oldtimers can manage that without too much trouble. -- here is a good safety tip --until you get used to your saw you can drop the blade (unspinning) to the work and note the location of the tooth to your line -- keeping in mind there can be as much as a sixteenth of an inch difference between the cut of one tooth and the next, so pick the right one. DO NOT push the material toward the blade, but rather, using your support hand, inch the pencil line toward the blade by pulling it. that way when your hand slips -- sooner or later it will, it won't leave you fingerless.
for the record, I use the 12" dewalt 708 and I have no complaints.
here's another tip. read the directions about everything including how to carry the saw. for instance, my 708 has a handle on top that you would assume is to carry it. But no! the fine print says to crank the miter all the way to the right, push the motor all the way to the back, lock it and then pick it up by the base. my point is -- you want this instrument to stay precise -- don't abuse it when you have to move it. personally, I won't let anyone buy my guys even look at one of my tools, let alone cut with it or move it. some jobsite helpers mean well and want to help you pick up, but I'd rather do it myself.
Pete,
Thanks for the miter saw advice. If you don't mind, I have another question because I'm a little confused by your first paragraph. You write:
"the dual bevel is a great feature because you'll find that regardless of the saw you buy, it is not easy to set it over and over again and still maintain that exact angle. even half a degree off in either direction can mess you up. when you're doing crown you can leave the bevel where it is and flip your work so that all you're adjusting is the miter (which is easier to adjust and generally more accurate.)"
You say that the dual bevel is a great feature but to ensure that I keep the same bevel angle of cut, flip the work piece. That would seem to suggest that a left and right dual bevel is not a great feature (or at least not necessary) because I'd get a more accurate cut by leaving the bevel set and flipping the piece the way you describe.
If I understand your advice right, I would be better off with a saw that bevels in only one direction and doesn't have a laser. Is that right? Thanks again.
Darge
I thought you might find that confusing ( it seemed confusing to me even as I wrote it) sometimes it's just more convenient to have the bevel on the opposite side. I'm going to the shop to make a few cuts -- I'll get back to you when I have my 'visual aids'.
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