I recently decided that my table saw wasn’t the appropriate tool for making perfect 45 degree miter cuts (this after reducing what should have been a 8×10 walnut frame to something closer to 5×7). I just wasn’t happy with the snugness of the fit — and I put in considerable time truing the blade. The fault is probably mine — hand-holding the piece to the miter guage instead of (building and) using a sled.
Anyhow, I used the situation to justify buying a 10″ miter saw. I wanted the double-bevel sliding type, but balked at the $500+ price tag. Perhaps one day when these objects of my obsession start paying for themselves…
Anyhow, I settled on the DeWalt based on some user reviews I read which indicated that it was dead-on out of the box and that the positive stops were also dead-on. With one minor twist of the bevel stop bolt, this has proven to be the case.
The only downside seems to be that other than a useless sawdust bag, it comes with no attachments. I went back to HD, Lowes, and Sears — and they all have attachments for the 705 and 708 saws. The boxes of the attachments clearly say “For use with…” these two (more expensive 12″) models but don’t mention the 703. DeWalt’s website says the attachments can be used for all three. Specifically, I am interested in the hold-down clamp. I tried opening the box on the extension and it seemed that it didn’t fit the 703. Also, the holes for the hold-down (the horizontal, anyway) seem a different size on the other saws.
My question is, has anyone succesfully used these attachments (or another manufacturer’s) on the 703?
Also, is the miter saw stand (DeWalt and Delta both have comparable models) worth the investment ($150)? Shop space is limited, so there is no opportunity for a permanent location (unless I lose a workbench that pretty much just has stuff stacked on it). I saw a Crafstmen “universal” model that has the advantage of wheels on one end so the whole thing can be folded up and carted out like a hand truck. Right now the saw is clamped to a B&D WorkMate and I use a separate roller stand to support long stock. Seems to me I can get away with this for a long time, especially if I can find a hold-down clamp that works.
I could just buy the attachments and return them if they don’t work, but frankly, I’m getting tired of trips to HD. I’d rather spend the time in the shop.
Thanks as always. I find the forums enlightening, even on topics that have little to do with what I am working on.
Edited 1/5/2004 4:13:55 PM ET by Makin’Sawdust
Replies
I would suggest you pick up the stand and not bother with the support extensions. The supports are $35 each and that puts you halfway to the stand. You could also make extension "legs" to fit and work with your workmate. But in the end the factory stand is better for the money.
I have the 703 with the hold down, crown brackets, and extension supports with the stop. the accy's are not too common, try a mail order, ebay, or amazon or the like.
I don't use the hold down, supports, or stops anymore as I have my miter station set up in my shop and built a dust collection hood behind the saw ( I guestimate that I get about 90% of the airborne dust particles, the larger sawdust shavings fall to the bottom of the box) . The crown brackets have been used once.
The 703 accy's are compatible with one other saw( I can't recall which one), check out dewalt's web site. I have had mine for 2 years, has been pretty reliable.
Sawdust,
I have the DeWalt 12" SCMS and opted for the Ridgid portable stand after looking at several others on the market. I like the large wheels, the ease of set-up and tear down, and, compared to the Delta model, the utter simplicity of the design (far fewer parts; far easier to align & maintain). The "gas shocks" make it simple to fold and unfold, even with the added weight of the attached saw.
That being said, however, if the ability to take the saw to the job site were not a factor, I would have designed and built a stand specifically for use in the shop.
Paul
In the DeWalt catalog, the DW703 accepts the following accessories: DW7080 Extension Kit, DW7051 Length Stop, DW7084 Crown Stops, and DW7082 Vertical Clamp. The vertical clamp is essential. Even when a board is hanging 6' or more off the deck, the force I can exert is great enough that the opposite end doesn't tilt up. The extension kit and the length stop are not necessary, especially if you plan to buy or make a stand. I think they are too expensive considering the additional range is limited. The crown stops are a bit of a curiosity and I hardly ever use them. They are supposed to hold crown moulding in position, but they don't exert any significant clamping pressure so crown moulding with any kind of bend or twist in them will not seat properly.
I'm looking at the DW703 as my first miter saw (power I have a Jorgensen manual saw that has had miserable results). What words of advise/ caution would you offer? I was looking at the Hitachi 10" but I've had good luck with Dewalt stuff (sander, jigsaw, cordless drill).
Thanks Todd
Wow, must be some kind of record, a reply to one of my postings almost 10 months ago. I'm not sure about any advice or caution, but I can tell you how I ended up with my saw. I have the DeWalt 708 12" sliding compound miter saw and my main criterion is capacity. This could crosscut 95% of the lumber I have come across. Since this was to be a full time shop saw, I could get a slider and not worry about it being bumped out of alignment on the back of a pick-up truck.
Another thing for me was that I wanted a saw that could bevel both sides. This was after a summer of helping my brother-inlaw install crown moulding on a Hitachi that bevelled only one way. The mental gymnastics required to position the work in the correct orientation was too challenging for our feeble minds. Curiously, I hardly use my saw's bevel feature in either direction. And I don't think I've made a single compound cut, which shows how much I know.
If I had to do it again, I would stay with a 12" slider, but probably go with the Makita or possibly the Bosch. At the time, I believe DeWalt had the only 12" dual-bevel slider out on the market, and it was priced considerably less back then.
I think the main thing is to look at the types of material that you'll be crosscutting, and then get a saw with that kind of capacity. And perhaps budget in a decent after-market blade if you're going to be doing any kind of fine crosscutting.
Thanks for the quick reply. I put a search on the keyword DW 703, and your discussion came up. I'm looking for my first power mitersaw. I'd say nearly, if not all, my cuts will be 6" base molding, maybe some miters for projects (cabnets, drawers etc...) nothing too heavy. Woodworking is a secondary hobby for me (sorry) so funds are extreemly tight. I was looking at the DW 708 & 705, but I'm not sure that I need a 12". Since I'll be doing finish work I'm looking for a 60-80 tooth blade as well. Thanks again, adn happy wood working!
Todd
If you're doing 6" base, look at the DW706 or DW705. 6" base is 6", you'll be pushing the limits of a 10" CMS. Eventually you'll wish you had a bigger saw. If price is an issue, check out the Bosch 12" CMS, its less and only bevels in one direction. I have a 703 & use it mainly for cutting FF stock and nailers to length. Everything else goes across my 12" saw.
With a deck project impending, I recently went through the decision-making process for a new miter saw. I chose the Bosch 3912 12" CMS. I had been leaning toward DeWalt, but the Bosch is a solid, excellent machine, and comes with the hold-down as standard equipment (extra $35 for the DeWalt). The support extensions are extra, I think they were $25 (DeWalt's are $30, may not be as sturdy). I've been very happy with it.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Another spam revival.
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