Dumb question:
When using a miter saw to rough cut or final cut boards, I often see woodworkers perform the cut with an initial light (scoring ?) cut, before plunging full depth into the board.
Why ?
Dumb question:
When using a miter saw to rough cut or final cut boards, I often see woodworkers perform the cut with an initial light (scoring ?) cut, before plunging full depth into the board.
Why ?
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Replies
Tearout?
I use a backer board to prevent tearout on the bottom, but I never had an issue on top.
Most likely because they saw someone else do it on YouTube.
That said there is a small chance of some tear out if you are using a sliding mitersaw as instructed, fully extended then pushed back to make the cut. This does make the leading edge of the blade the rear which is spinning clockwise meaning the cut edge of the wood is unsupported and thus prone to tear out. In real life 40+ years of them Woodworking I've never had a tear out problem with a sliding compound mitersaw, but I use top quality tools with premium blades. I suppose it could be more likely on a consumer grade tool using Diablo blades.
A contractor I've used swears by a light climb cut on the pull stroke followed by the regular plunge and push. For the kind of rough work he does I don't get it, but to each his own.
Same principle as a scoring cut in plywood.
If you have a good saw blade I've never seen the need, even with plywood. Most tear out is on the edge next to fence, so a back board on fence helps (it also interferes with dust collection).
I'll just agree with everyone else.
There is no need but some people do it anyway.
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