Hi, I just wandered in from Breaktime. I lurk in here from time to time, but usually don’t post. Anyway, I designed a new saw stand that Taunton will probably publish in FHB. Thought you might like to see it over here too.
I made a saw stand for my new Delta that allows me to tuck the saw underneath for use as a work table. When the job is over I tip the stand on its’ back, pull the legs and stow them with the saw…from stand to tool box.
The stand was built to match the height of my table saw and 10″ SCMS.
The sides of the stand are double walled, with a 3/4″ slot to slide the legs into. The fit is snug…but not too tight. Works well and is very stable. The top of the slot has a stop screwed in so the legs (just the right length to fit inside the box) produce the 36″ height for the saw.
The reason I built a stand….no stands available in the marketplace offer adequate storage and protection of the mitersaw when not in use or when transported. Nor do they allow that work station in the shop or on the job site to be used for other tasks (that space becomes dedicated to just the mitersaw).
Being able to use a space for different tasks is especially important in a small shop and for special use saws (this stand is for my tall baseboard and large crown saw).
Replies
Here's the auxillary table/fence sawstand with knockdown supports (all cut out of one 4x8 sheet of 1/2" MDO ply).
I like to make aux. fences & tables out of MDO (sign board) ply because it is good for writing notes and marks for repeat cuts on it. Also a nice smooth, straight & stable material.
This is just my opinion.
You have a great idea there.<!----><!----><!---->
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But I'd rather have this CMS stand with wheels & a shop built box to put the saw in for transport.<!----><!---->
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What you have is great for a small shop but too clumsy for transport time after time.
I do have the Ridgid MSUV shown in the picture. I use it for my planer & will use it for a doweling machine I am making now & a pocket screw machine I'll be making in the future that uses a router to make the pocket. I already have a place for my CMS. There is an adjustable stand just out of the picture to the left & the material can run about 7'-8' to the right onto the RAS top. I can easily cut 12' or longer material.
Good, better, best never let it rest until your good is better & your better best.
Edited 2/4/2007 12:13 am by OB
Edited 2/4/2007 12:14 am by OB
I will add wheels, handles, and a lid to my box this week to make it more portable. I have a stand similar to the Rigid stand with my Hitachi 10" slider mounted on it. I wanted a stand that could be used for other kinds of work, when my new Delta is sitting idle.I will post a few improvements as I add them.Thanks for your interest,Basswood
I really think your onto something if you could make everything break down & yet lock together in a transport mode. Also try to figure out how to lighten it up a bit. Just a thought using a large forstner bit drill some holes or using a saber/hand held jig-saw to remove material from stratigic areas where it is not needed for strength to lighten the main stand. You can use a router to round over the edges of the openings so they are smooth. You can route where ever possible to round over corners & edges & holes this will also remove weight. Just make it as light & strong as needed.
I have to be honest I think your extension legs are way over kill. As long as your table ends are fastened to the main stand solid you could just as well use portable roller stands to support the outer ends & these are height adjustable for the un-eveness of where ever you set up, plus they fold up & will lay flat. These stands come in handy for many other uses too. This way you are not packing something around that is only good for a dedicated use.
Good, better, best never let it rest until your good is better & your better best.
Edited 2/4/2007 12:55 am by OB
I would like to build another stand out of the same 1/2" MDO as the aux. fence and supports. That would be lighter and strong enough, especially with the doubled sides.Rounding over the edges is a good idea too.As far as work supports go, I have roller supports and a Ridgid Flip Top (which I prefer) and they do have value. I am finding that these new supports have some advantages too. They are lighter and take up less room (both when knocked down and set up).The bases and support tops of my roller and Flip Top stands were too wide to give me access to a coutertop miter I needed to bolt up this past week...the new work support was just the ticket.Also, even using expensive MDO, the materials for these work supports cost about $10 each and you can build four of them in an hour or two from one 4x8 sheet.
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