I am trying to streamline production in my shop. one particular point that is very time consuming and very worthwhile is shooting all ends square after cutting boards to length + 1/32 on each end (to be shot off at the bench). The question. Does anyone own a miter saw that cuts 100% square so I could skip this tedious step?
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Replies
Handplanes are ok but if I can cut it once with a power tool that's my preference. My miter gauge on my saw cuts perfectly square and a retrofit or a sled for wider pieces will give accurate cuts. So will a decent miter saw and proper blade. What miter saw are you using that isn't square???
Yes, I have a miter saw that cuts so accurately, that when I check it against a shooting board (or place two 45 cuts together, the result is perfectly square)the results are equal. The trick is to set up your miter saw correctly (adjust the fence and align the pointer). One detent (left 45) on my Makita slider is out be a bit, so I align the pointer rather than rely on the detent. All the others are balls on accurate. the laser and experience allows me to cut very accurately, but if I need refined accuracy for extreme detail work, I might trim a few thous off with the shooting board, but more often than not, I get the proper cut off the Makita.
I have an older cheap Delta 10" miter saw that is right on the money. It took some time to set up properly, but it cuts accurately.
However, if the blade gets dull, or if I force the cut; then the blade wanders. If your cut surface is not perfectly flat, check your blade and technique.
Dan
I have a Delta Sidekick. I have had it for about 7 years now and it is quite accurate. The larger the protractor, the greater the accuracy. I have used two other brands extensively and I have found on both that when you tighten the clamp(handle) the setting will creep a degree or so unless you watch it very carefully as you tighten. On the sidekick you have a different type of locking mechanism. You do have to watch if you depend on the detents to make sure they are seated as they are not as pronounced as they could be. If you don't get into too big of a hurry this is not a problem.
My 10 inch Makita slider was perfect out of the box and has continued to deliver.
Archi, I don't own a miter saw, but I know certain of them are capable of reliable accuracy for sure.
I rely on my radial arm saw to do what you want-however it is not of the light weight type that has acquired a poor reputation amongst woodworkers.
Philip,
Even industrial radial arm saws are more prone to misalignment than either chop saws or table saws. Their design makes this inevitable.
They can be aligned, but a full tune up is a major process if everything from the table, up through the post, the arm alignment, and then the head alignment are checked and adjusted. There are 15 or 20 adjustments to make and the job will take a few hours, even with the right tools and an experienced technician. If there is wear on the saw it may not be possible to get the saw cutting correctly without a rebuild.
If you are going to rely on the saw for mitering, you might find it easier to align the saw properly for 90 degree cuts and then use a shop made jig on the table to hold stock at an angle for miter cuts. Doing this reduces the chance that the saw's head will be thrown out of line by swinging the arm from 45 degrees left to 45 degrees right repeatedly.
To be honest, if you are doing work for money, buying a table saw or a chop saw will pay for itself in the time saved in not having to fine tune miter cuts after they are sawn on the radial arm saw. A radial arm saw has some advantages for certain operations, but cutting miter joints isn't one of them.
John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine
I totally agree with you about radial arm saws. Due to their design, including their small protractors, they are great contractors tools but not accurate enough for fine cabinet work. I once kept 6 carpenters busy while cutting all the plates and window and door framing parts for a 50 ft by 96 ft house in one 8 hr day. Of course, I had one man bringing me measurements and one carrying materials. For carpentry quality work a radial arm saw is hard to beat. I have since retired and for my hobby shop I have sold my radial saw and purchased a Delta Sidekick.
Do you require the superior finish that shooting currently gives you, or is this an irrelevant side-effect ?
BugBear
I reckon you need to ask yourself what it is you're trying to do... shooting boards will give a totally square cut with a perfect finish... powered saws will (when tuned) cut just as square but will compromise finish for speed, and even then, you won't gain all that much...
figure out what's more important to you....
Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
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