Replies

1. 
   Sphere | Feb 19, 2004 01:45am | #1

   Easy..if 45 degrees..length of box is 9"..so short point of miter to short point is 9"..same with the sides. If the trim is 3/4 thick overall length is 10.5 ...9+ 3/4 +3/4=10.5..same for sides and back.

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   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

1. 
   billballeza | Feb 19, 2004 02:03am | #2

   So, if I'm understanding you correctly, you add the width or thickness of the trim (x2 or for each end) to the length of the box.. and then mark for the miter cut at that length.. in this case I mark at 10.5 and make my cuts on that mark. Correct?

1. 
   Sphere | Feb 19, 2004 02:15am | #3

   stick with measuring from the SHORT point of the miter..not the long..So..9" short to short...if all the trim is the same thickness it all takes care of its self..on the long points. lay the trim on the box, scribe both ends with pencil thats all ya need to do..cut away the leftover ends at 45* and mkes sure sure ya have at least 1" from the pencil line..cuz yer gonna need 3/4 to have a long point.

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   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

1. 
   billballeza | Feb 19, 2004 02:40am | #4

   Sphere.. sorry if I seem dense..

   Okay, the box is 9".. and the trim is 3/4. So I first take a 10 1/2" length of trim.. then mark it on both sides at nine inches.. and make my 45 miter cut?

   Again, sorry for not getting it right away and thanks for your help and patience.

   Bill

2. 
   joinerswork | Feb 19, 2004 02:44am | #5

   Bill,

   Cut one end of your 1st piece of mold to 45*.

   Hold the mitered end  in place (flush with the corner) on the front of the box; with a knife, carefully mark the other end at the corner of the box.  Cut miter to the mark.

   Apply that piece, then repeat above steps for the two ends.

   For the back: cut one end of the mold, hold in place just above the two end pieces' miters, mark the other end of the last piece.  Cut just a cat hair  too long.  Try it, and trim or pare to fit.

   Regards,

   Ray

1. 
   lynnroy | Feb 19, 2004 02:54am | #6

   be careful and not forget the width of the cut. You need to cut on the waste side of the mark or measurement.

1. 
   billballeza | Feb 19, 2004 06:02am | #9

   Lynn, good point. I appreciate it.

2. 
   billballeza | Feb 19, 2004 06:02am | #8

   Ray, thanks very much for the very practical suggestion. I'm going to do it just as you say.. and use scrap sticks first to try and get it down.

   Thanks again!

   Bill

1. 
   joinerswork | Feb 19, 2004 05:12pm | #13

   Bill,

   Good luck with your project.

   Regards,

   Ray

3. 
   JerBear | Feb 19, 2004 05:37am | #7

   Joinerswork is right.  I'm over here from the Breaktime threads and am a trim carpenter by trade and I use the tape surprisingly little in my work.  I get a rough idea how long something may be, cut the angle butt, miter, cope...whatever leaving an inch or so overcut, hold the piece tight to the now new joint, then mark where the other end will be cut and keep going in succession.  In close woodworking and finer trim I always mark with a razor knife. 

1. 
   billballeza | Feb 19, 2004 06:04am | #10

   Thanks, Jer.. if I'd stop trying to overthink these things and just let practicality rule.. I would probably do alot better.

4. 
   bobJackson | Feb 19, 2004 06:22am | #11

   I always take a short piece of the moulding and cut the mating miter on it. then cut the first miter . Put the "test" piece and the first miter together and adjust until perfect, hold the good piece and get a clamp on it. Then carefully razor knife the length of the good piece for the inside short point of the second miter( the other end of the stick with the first miter on it.) This is a long winded way of saying  to always test the corner with a return miter. this will also show you potential problems with not square corners  and length before you cut. It is much easier than it sounds. Good luck  Bob

5. 
   robkelly1 | Feb 19, 2004 06:31am | #12

   If the box is 10", cut a 12" piece of molding. Miter one end. Hold the molding against the box so that the unmitered end sticks out, and the mitered end is in the right place. Draw a pencil line on the unmitered end, where it hits the box. Miter to that line. Discard the small cutoff.

   You may think this is simplistic and non mathematical. I minored in mathematics in college, with 40 units of upper division math credits, including differential equations (easy) and orthogonal functions (difficult). Nonetheless, this is the way I do it, because there are no mistakes.