I am remodeling and am finally to the point where I get to make the trim. I spent the weekend milling the pieces for the caps and am very pleased. Best of all, so is the wife. My question is, as I am milling all of the pieces myself and they are basically a combination of ogees, I could mill the return, rather than mitering it.
So my question is, what has the greater craftsmanship appeal. The return is about 3″ at the top. So not much return, and in general you don’t want to show end grain, but if each piece was custom milled, wouldn’t that speak volumes to the craftsmanship?!
Thanks for your thoughts.
Replies
For a consistant finish, I'd mitre the returns. End grain almost always finishes differently from edge or face grains.
I'll second Dave, returned miters is the professional way to go.
I miter the returns.
Here is a nice thread on glueing mitered returns
http://www.jlconline.com/cgi-bin/jlconline.storefront/3f4191bc000c2212271a401e1d2905e3/Catalog/1029?read=14907
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
Thanks for the reference thread. I will have to get my hands on some of that magic glue.
I like everyone's point that for a consistent finish, go with mitering. That is way more convincing to me that "It's the pro's way", or what most of my buddies said, "I have never seen it done otherwise." Tradition has a way of not following reason or telling the whole story, and lot's of pros follow Tradition.
Thanks for the feedback. Mitered it is. I'll post pics when they're stained up.
Cledwyn
What is really cool about that glue is that it will even bond two stained surfaces. Even Titebond won't do that.Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
My sense is that any quality job is done with mitred returns. Practically- The mitred ends will finish better than mitred end grain.
There's another option if you mill the returns. Wood sizing! Applied to end grain it allows the prevents it from getting as dark when you apply the stain so it gives a more even color. Franklin makes a commercial woodsizing or you can make your own by cutting shellac 10/1 and applying it to the eng grain, sanding and staining like you normally do. I've also cut tightbond glue and done the same thing.
Milled end grain never falls off. Milled end grain never opens on an exact 45 degree angle when it gets wet or dry. Milled end grain does not get knocked off. Stools with milled returns can be screwed up into casing legs for tight fits, protection against window sill sitters, and ease of apron installation.
The face grain of maple, cherry, pine and a whole host of other species splotchs like crazy if elaborate steps are not taken to prevent it.
Every board I have ever used that has been cut from a real live tree has end grain on each end. I don't find it any more appalling than the tips of my fingers, which do not look at all like the tops.
Clampman
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled