Hi all. It’s great to see everybody back up on the forum. Last year I bought two nice old black walnut slabs, each around 18″ wide, 8’long and around 8/4″ with live edges. The idea was for a fairly conventional dining table and chairs. You know, rectangular top with aprons, square legs, etc. The table is to be appx 36″ x 48″. Now the design concept has evolved to a rectagular top with 4 live edges. I have all this expensive walnut and can’t find any square trees to get a slab from, so I’m thinking of how a tabletop with all live edges can be done. The current thinking is to make a frame and panel top, with mitered corners. Here are my questions then: 1)Will such a mitered corner hold up over time? 2)How can I add a panel which will not create a slot for crumbs, etc to fall into? I was thinking of a veneered panel made of something stable, say mdf. Could such a panel be glued to the frame and be expected to survive over time? I’m sure I’m not the first guy who’s thought of this. I’d love to hear some ideas. I’ll be a hero if I can pull this off.
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Replies
The MDF panel will be fine. The hard part is making perfect miters all around on 18" wide stock, and having them stay perfect over time. Walnut is a relatively well-behaved child, but still the pieces need to be uniform and well dried.
On a completely different note, I personally don't like the idea, design-wise. The live edges don't speak the same language as a finely mitered top. But that's just my own subjective opinion.
Thanks David
I really appreciate your advice.
I was thinking that the frame would be more like 8" wide, so the miter wouldn't be as much of a feature, although I hear what you're saying about clashing styles. I should make a mock-up to see how it looks.
If I decide to go forward, I was also thinking of reinforcing the miters with invisible splines, although I'm open for suggestions.
You'll need to use something
You'll need to use something in the miter joints - splines, dowels, biscuits, etc. But your problem will be the aesthetics of keeping the joints perfect, not their strength.
Do make a mock-up just to see if the design idea feels right to you in actual practice.
Even though walnut is a relatively well behaved child, as David has already stated, it still moves with season MC changes. At 8" for a mitered wrap, the border is going to shrink and expand through the seasons. When it shrinks, those miters are going to open up on the innermost area of the miter.
I wouldn't advise it. You're better off, if you must, using a much smaller edge treatment of the live edge, so it won't be noticeable when it moves.
I love live edge tables, but I also don't like the idea of wrapping it around all four edges of the table. It won't look right, in my opinion. I'm only giving it because you asked. However, if you are going to use that technique, at least do so in a fashion that won't be firewood in 3 years.
Jeff
David,
Why not edge joint two of the live edge pces, leaving their outer edges "live", and then work their ends in a compatible manner? Random bevels, round over, a notch or two.
Ray
Thank you Jeff and Ray. I can see that I will need to rethink this design. Heaven knows I've built enough crappy looking projects already. I think Ray is on to something with a treated edge design.
The original idea for a rustic mitered top came from several picture frames that I made this Fall for my daughter's school auction. I used live edge native cherry which matched the theme of the auction. The frames turned out pretty good, so I thought the idea could be extended to a table top. I will still mock up something to see what it looks like, although I don't have high hopes.
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