All:
I posted here a while back about a project I am doing. I am making a cube, and I need to miter the edges to 45 so they all fit together. I am using 1/2 inch ply, and my table saw doesn’t really do well at 45 degrees. So, I had decided to use a 45 degree bit in my router.
I have a DeWalt plunge router, and I recently got this Craftsman table to mount it on. Well, it is not working out. In order to bring the 45 degree bit anywhere close to far enough up on the table to do the pieces, I have to barely secure the router bit in the router. The reason is because this table requires an adapter plate, and the router won’t come up far enough.
Problem is, with the bit barely in the router, the router won’t stay on. I think maybe the vibration is too much, and the trigger lock wiggles loose. I am not sure. Nevertheless, I am at a loss for what to do.
Should I just get a dado jig for the router, and dado the joints? What would you guys do?
Thx!
B
Replies
I should think your table saw would be the tool for the job, what's the problem? So long as your arbor bearings aren't shot, and the blade locks, any number of simple jigs can be made to give you good results.
Jeff
Please, please! don't try anything with a router bit that's not firmly seated in its collet. Never, ever, ever! That bit is a flesh-seeking missle once it leaves the router collet at 15,000RPM or whatever you happen to be running at. It could find something as precious as an eye. If it happens to be a finely-tuned missle, it could find an artery, and you, my dear, are HISTORY. It can and does happen.
Now, the lecture's over. Your other choice with the router is to clamp the stock to a work surface and use the router hand-held.
Please expound on why the tablesaw isn't working. Maybe we can help you there.
BTW, is that router bit 1/4" shank or 1/2" shank???
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 10/11/2002 11:37:41 AM ET by forest_girl
I'd use a smoothing plane and a shooting block -- quick, easy and foolproof.
I'm not going to go into the tablesaw thing and why doesn't work. What you could do is this: I assume you're making a box with mitered sides? Figure out the total length of all your sides plus some extra. If for example it is 5', then cut a scrap piece of 3/4" MDF or whatever you have to the same length. Just make sure it has a straight edge on one side. Now flush up the edge of your plywood that you want the 45 degree with the straight edge of your scrap and clamp. The 3/4" clamped below the plywood will give your bearing material to ride on. Make sense? As long as you make sure the two pieces are absolutely flush, you shouldn't have a problem w/ getting a perfect miter.
Thanks all for your replies. . .
What the heck is a shooting block? I am not sure what that means.
Good idea John. . .
I am leaning toward the table saw, but does anyone know where I can get redwood putty? Or could I just make some with glue and redwood?B
I use a 45* bit in my router with a set-up John describes to make jewelry chest miter joints. The sides are held down with toggle clamps mounted on backer blocks to reduce tear-out. I found all 45* router bits aren't exactly 45* however--i used a new one in the same jig and didn't test the joints before doing all of them; they were off by a couple degrees so i had to do all 64 edges over again.
You might try a different blade in your TS. I used to get terrible results when i tried that, but i just bought a "throwaway" blade for $29 while my others are out being sharpened, and darned if it hasn't done the best 45* so far. You'll also have better results if you remove most of the stock the first pass, then come back grazing off the last 1/16" or so in a final pass.
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