Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 28, 2005 07:12pm | #1

   It is worth a try.  No harm from doing it.  How well it works depends on how much reddening you need, and how well the first Watco application sealed the wood.  If it doesn't give enough change you might have to use a toned top coat.  I'd use a 100% varnish, rather than an oil varnish because you don't want to wipe so much off while using it as a toner. 

2. 
   BilWil | Dec 28, 2005 07:43pm | #2

   I'm a fan of Watco and mix the colors all the time.  For example, I have a client who really likes walnut with the medium watco finish, but since most of the walnut is steamed now it can look dull with just the mdeium walnut watco ---so, a coat of cherry watco over the medium walnut watco really makes alot of difference.  I've used orange dye in the light walnut watco to get rid of that dull muddy look, but it didn't satisfy the client like just using the cherry watco over the medium watco did.  If you want more red on the maple than just cherry over medium gives you, just sand after the medium walnut to expose some bare wood befor the cherry goes on, I use 400 or at most 320 when I do this.  If sanding is too drastic, I've been know to wipe an oil finish with turps to lighten it.

   I have also added red dye to the golden oak watco to get some red in it for a client.  she was really pleased and it was easy to do----so maybe you can add some brown dye to the cherry watco or some red dye to the walnut watco. 

   
   

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   Edited 12/28/2005 11:46 am ET by BilWil

1. 
   user-81008 | Dec 29, 2005 03:39am | #3

   Thanks for the advice. The client came by today, and she saw a piece in the same wood that I used a natural Danish oil + wipe-on polyurathane finish, and she went from wanting a "darker" look to the natural look (which I prefer)...of course, I'm back to sanding now.

1. 
   forestgirl | Dec 29, 2005 10:27am | #4

   Next time around, reserve a piece of stock for finishing tests.  Present the client with several different options and get approval before finishing the actual piece.  I still have the blocks from the first jersey case I made, clearly labelled with Sharpie pen on the backs.

   That being said, the case I'm making now is going to be finished without a "finish approval" from the client, since he said "Oh, you decide, just as long as it's a light finish, not a dark one."  I'll probably hate myself.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   user-81008 | Dec 29, 2005 06:40pm | #5

   The hardest thing I've had to learn since I started woodworking is patience. Usually, I make a few sample blocks with various finishes, but this time, I didn't, and I could kick myself. But, sanding the table again, I was able to get out this tiny, tiny knick that I noticed after the fact. Plus, it might be a few more years before I go ahead and finish something before testing it--I hope, at least. Hope all is well.

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 01, 2006 01:52am | #6

   Glad it's going well.  I know what you mean about patience!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

3. 
   Wilson | Jan 07, 2006 02:18am | #7

   art store - burn sienna pigment for more red, burnt umber for more brown mix small dab in a 50/50 mineral spiris/blo. add incremental small amount to the danish oil until you get the color you want. alternative is pigment in 30% polyurethane 10% blo balance mineral spirits and use as glaze over the surface and blend in color with saturated rag in same. it is trial and error. follow by wipe on poly to seal the glaze