I have a Ridgid 10″ contractor’s saw that I like, and is all I can afford at the moment. Recently had to rip some 10/4 oak, admittedly more than this saw is designed to handle. Burned the wood, had to keep lifting it to keep from binding the blade, and popped the circuit breaker once.
Is it possible to put a more powerful motor (than it’s 1.5 hp one) on this machine? Or would it shake everything else apart, since this is only designed to be a light-duty machine? And, if I can upgrade, any suggestions on what might be a good motor?
Replies
Chad,
Better check with the folks at Ridgid. Too much power can damage your saw's trunions, arbor, etc. If machine can take it, move up to 3 hp.
Baldor makes the best motor, but they're quite expensive. Check with an electrical supply dealer for a good used motor. While you're at it, you might as well use 220v. and a link belt. You may need to make a different mounting system, but that's just a matter of drilling out an adaptor plate.
If you need to cut such heavy stock in the future, stay away from your contractor's saw. Use a band saw, or have it cut at the mill. The heat you're producing is ruining the blade temper, and setting you up for some serious kick-back.
"Had to keep lifting" is a frightening prospect! How do you do that with the guard in place? If the guard isn't in place, you've got a missile launch system and you're standing right in the line of fire. Even if you're somehow doing this with the guards in place, the kick-back from a 10/4 piece of oak could literally ruin your saw, twisting and bending all its innards.
Jeff
Jeff, you said, "Even if you're somehow doing this with the guards in place, the kick-back from a 10/4 piece of oak could literally ruin your saw, twisting and bending all its innards."
Unfortunate phrasing I suspect, ha, ha. Ruining the poxy saw would be the least of my worries. Another one can be got for a few peanuts, but smashed faces, hands and bodies from a big kickback are a bit more difficult to fix. Slainte.Website
I would switch to a teflon coated thin kerf rip blade first. Have a hunch that will do the trick for you. I was ripping lignum vitae with my power feeder and went to my saw shop telling them I needed to slow down my power feeder because my saw was stalling. They handed me a thin kerf Freud rip blade and told me to get back to work. Safer,much less kickback, requires LESS power to run, crosscuts very well...love them thin kerf blades.
BTW I have a small portable 8" Makita tablesaw that I haul to jobsites. With a thin kerf rip blade in that, I can rip 2" oak no problem...
good luck/work safe!
silver
Edited 10/17/2002 9:53:15 AM ET by silver
Yes, you can put a different motor on that saw. I seem to remember the existing motor has a NEMA 56 frame, so any motor with the same frame will bolt right on and the pulley will fit. But I wouldn't be too quick to put a larger motor on that saw, for lots of reasons, one or two of which were addressed by Jeff K above.
If you're burning and bogging, I'd first look at using a good quality [sharp] rip blade with as few teeth as possible. I would also check the wiring to the saw. Working it as hard as you are, you should be powering it from a dedicated 20A branch circuit (with 12 ga or 10 ga wire, assuming you're at 115V), and no extension cords unless they're the same or heavier gauge. This subject has been beaten to death repeatedly here, so I'll just remind you that induction motor performance under load drops off rapidly with a drop in voltage. If you reconfigured the motor for 230V operation and run it on 12 ga branch circuit wiring, along with good blade/fence alignment and a good blade, the problem would most likely solved. If you change to a larger motor, you would need a 240V source anyway, so why not start there? An electrician may also be cheaper than a new motor, if the run is short and access is good.
Edit: If you're existing motor is 56Z or 56HZ, make sure the shaft size of a new motor is the same.
Be seeing you...
Edited 10/17/2002 10:49:49 AM ET by TDKPE
Most common cause of burning when cutting wood is due to using the wrong blade for the job. Install a 20 tooth rip blade with deep gullets and you will be fine. Install a 80 tooth high priced blade and even with 10 hp it will burn because its clogging.
That's what I was thinking when I wrote my response (but by taking my time others said it first). I used to have an 8 or 10 tooth carbide on a 50's vintage 8" Craftsman table saw that would cut anything using a 3/4 hp motor. It may not have been a glassy finish, but it did the job. Be seeing you...
Hi Chad,
I had similar problems with my Jet Contractor's saw..and a Forrest WWII blade.
I had new power installed in my shop...new box, dedicated circuit, etc and also converted to 220.
I haven't popped a breaker yet, my saw only bogs down slightly under thick White Oak or Maple....but not much...I'm much happier post-new power.
You might have an electrician check your power situation out...the "fix" might be easier than you think....As I recall, you'll have to provide some pretty heavy amps for a 3+ hp motor anyway.....
Good luck...and be safe.......
lp
Just a couple of thoughts, First, I don't think it's possible to "over power" the saw to the point of breaking it, as some have claimed, with-in reason. Provided the motor isn't so big as to tip the saw over. But you will want to use a motor with the identical rpm, (eg 1725 or 3450) you DON'T want the blade spinning too fast. And use the identical NEMA frame to insure no problems with the fit, as was mentioned before. Another thing, since it was brought up, Baldor motors are overrated, in my opinion, Baldor, like any other manufacturer makes motors of varying quality, some good, some so-so. To say "Baldor makes the best" is simply not accurate.
GC
The limiting factor here is not the motor HP, but the single belt drive of most contractor's saws. This works fine for a 1-1/2 to 2 HP motor.
Cabinet saws almost always use a triple belt drive for a 3HP motor. If you were to put larger than a 3 HP on a single belt drive, the motor might continue turning even after the blade has stopped, resulting in a dangerous condition and a potentially burning belt. Keep it to 3HP or less.
I have a 3HP on my OLD Craftsman and it rarely bogs. Recently it did just barely start to bog on a deep rip in some 8/4 white oak, but I just slowed the feed a bit and it came right back. If I had put on my dedicated rip blade, it would likely have not bogged but I only had one short (40+") to make and didn't want to be bothered changing blades.
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Lee in Cave Junction, Oregon
On the Redwood Highway
Edited 10/19/2002 12:46:36 AM ET by Lee
I'm betting a case of Moslon XXX that a thin kerf ripblade will solve this "saw problem".
cheers,it's friday night
silver
No bet here. I think you're right.
But you just triggered a craving for a truely fine beer. We have a micro-brewery here in town, Wild River. They bottle it as well as sell it on draft at their pizza parlors. They make some great Nut Brown Ale and I've got a couple left in the fridge. Hang on, I'll be right back.
Aaahhhh! That's much better. BTW, they also make an ESB (European Special Bitter) Ale that I truely love. But then I have a special fondness for German style dark bitter beers/ales.
Cheers!!!
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Lee in Cave Junction, Oregon
On the Redwood Highway
Edited 10/19/2002 1:59:42 AM ET by Lee
Lee and Silver,
Don't drink and drive . . . The saw, that is.
I agree with the advice about changing the blade. With the proper blade the saw will not seem to be underpowered.
R
mmm...microbrewery...sounds good. I'm a big fan of Molson xxx because it has no preservatives,full bodied taste and 7.1%
BTW...Have you tried the Bostick saw blade spray. It's teflon based, environmentally friendly and really works to minimize friction and resin build-up on the blade. It's pricey (20 bucks) but outperforms wd40 which I recently heard contains lacquer thinners...hmmm
cheers to Saturday
silver
I'll look into the Bostick spray. Thanks for the tip.
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Lee in Cave Junction, Oregon
On the Redwood Highway
Thanks, all, for the suggestions. I will also try the Bostic spray.
I had already dteremined to try a thin=kerf, teflom-coated blade. But I got a brainstorm and remembered a Makita "chisel point combination" blade I inherited from my Dad. I don't think it was ever used. I put it on the saw last evening.
Well! It went through that 10/4 oak like corn through the new maid. I don't believe it's carbide-tipped, even, or teflon-coated. It IS thin, and that seems to have made all the difference.
Since I don't expect to be cutting 10/4 oak too often, changing the blade seems to be my least costly and most effective solution. Thanks again!
Rich Rose wrote: Don't drink and drive . . . The saw, that is.
NEVER!!!!! The beer is only after shutting down the shop for the night, walking in the house, removing the boots, and putting the feet up. I wish I had a roaring fire to gaze into.
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Lee in Cave Junction, Oregon
On the Redwood Highway
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