Modify old contractor saw or buy new SawStop saw?
prosecutor
| Posted in General Discussion on
I have an old Rockwell contractor saw that still works well but has the crappy OEM fence that requires much tinkering before rip cuts. The OEM guard is not attached. I’ve piddled around for several years with it.
Now, I’m starting to spend more time with the hobby and wondering whether to upgrade the saw with a Shop Fox fence (since Biesemeyers now get such bad feedback online) and some dust collection. The other alternative is to buy a new SawStop contractor saw or cabinet saw. Admittedly, the new saws are so nice, well put together, and SAFE. But the the difference between $500 to upgrade what I have versus $2000-$3000 is a lot of wood and/or other tools.
Any advice or experiences appreciated.
Replies
Get the sawstop if you can. The SS contractor saw is safe, the cabinet saw is safe AND wonderful. So far I have triggered the tech twice in 4 years, once via brain fart ( wet glue in contact with the miter gauge ) and once where I did not lock down the rip fence firmly enough and a drawer bottom rabbet cut slipped out to my finger. The blade barely scratched my skin; no blood at all. On my old saw I would have notched a finger (at the very least).
General Life Advice: when you can afford genuine quality for something you will use a lot and depend on, go for it. Specific advice, this case: the SawStop is a quality, precision machine, and the company's support is exceptional in my experience. I used to dread table saw work, now it's a real pleasure.
Purchase the Sawstop. I have used a Rockwell contractor's saw for now 35 years. I use it with a good sized extension and wings, router installed. When I purchased it, I quickly converted to a 50" Unifence, which I love. Tried a Biesmyer fence and did not like it. Setup as I have, the Rockwell saw has been terrific and has enabled me to do almost anything you can so on a tablesaw. Never the less, BUY THE SAWSTOP. You may use it for the next 35 years, it is a nicer saw, and it is safer. Again, it is safer!
Safety is always dependent on the user. Establish the habit of pausing before each cut for the fraction of a second to ask yourself, " is this safe, lined up?"
One more plus, the riving knife and blade guard swap so easily that I always use them.
I had a fully upgraded old craftsman saw that I put a Delta T3 fence on, PALs system, link belt, added dust collection, etc. It cut great. I sold it for all the money I'd put into it and just this weekend got a sawstop cabinet saw, purely motivated by the safety. I have a hard time imagining my new saw cutting better than the one I had dialed in, but I'll sleep better knowing it's safer since I'm spending more time in the shop these days. One thing that started me thinking about getting the sawstop is that the saw cost less than my insurance deductible, so a single serious accident avoided saves me money, in addition to saving me a potential life of coping with the result of an accident. If you can make it work to buy the sawstop I think it's the right move.
I have the same saw. I bought new it back in the '70's, added a good 2 hp motor, 52"Beisemeyer fence and tuned it carefully. A splitter from a Unisaw and an outfeed table makes a very serviceable, accurate package. We have made a lot of furniture together. But I would take a Sawstop cabinet saw if I could get it.
I got tired of fiddling with my old saw and bought a Sawstop contractor model. No regrets. It has upped my game considerably, not just for safety but in quality of cuts. I would spring for the mobile base and the upgraded fence, however. I could never justify the expense of the cabinet saw for what I do and how often I use it.
My number one justification for purchasing the SawStop PCS was safety. I'm extremely happy with my decision after a recent incident that would have been a life changer otherwise.
Your life as you know it should weigh heavy in your decision... One incident and it'll never be the same.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2033131390248153/permalink/2674881582739794/
I apologize for sounding like a broken record. I bought the Saw Stop 3HP PCS since it was as good or better than other $3000 tier saws. The safety tech and the free overarm were icing on the cake.
Saw Stops get pushed for the safety tech, and it is great. My point is that even without it I probably would have ended up with the black saw versus the yellow, grey or white ones at a similar price point.
The fit and finish, the documentation and support and the whole experience from store to the first saw dust was top notch. I am speaking of my experience in the pre-Festool days but, would not expect any difference now.
P.s. I ran a Rockwell Delta contractor saw for many years. You can really trick out a contractor saw but, you can never make up for the bevel cut issues that this format of machine generally has. Older machines also lack a riving knife which I consider a bare minimum for a tablesaw.
I've been a teacher in a cabinet shop for almost 15 years and have worked in wood working for 30. If you have the money to put out, then you can't go wrong with the Saw Stops. I have three of them in my shop and they are the best!!! With the level of safety it provides, it virtually eliminates any serious contact injury. With proper set up, the riving knife consistently in place, a magnetic feather board for good measure and a set good push sticks, you should never get any kick back. Your money will be well spent when you consider the cost of a few fingers and the lifelong damage that goes with it. Cheers!
If you have the money go for it. Just don't set yourself up for buyer's remorse.
If the Sawstop's gonna make you money, there's no reason to not buy it. If you're just doing projects for home or friends, do the cheaper upgrade.
Best of luck,
Mikaol
Sorry, but I have to say that if you are into the hobby, and I'm assuming it is a hobby, your fingers matter more than whether or not the saw has a good ROI. Safety is not just for production shops carrying heavy workmans' comp policies.
I upgraded from a contractors saw to a Unisaw and love how very much more precise everything is. It only cost me about $500 after I sold my old saw and bought the used Unisaw. That being said, I do like the idea of the SawStop, if I had that much available cash. It's just too far a reach for me right now, especially based on how much I use it.
I have been toying seriously with the idea of the $1500.00 job site SS. I make and donate crosses to my church and although I can’t write the price off, I’ll may buy it anyway. Or keep trying to make them using hand tools only.
I'm a hobbyist. I tricked out my old Craftsman contractor's saw, and was very happy with it for twenty-five years. Last year, when I found more time in my schedule, I donated the Craftsman to a local charity and bought the Saw Stop contractor's saw with 31" fence. I couldn't be happier -- and it saved my index finger from a moment of inattention. If you can afford it, do it!
Purchase a Sawstop, whatever your budget. If you have an accident and require surgery, you will wish you'd saved your fingers and the medical bills. I bought one over ten years ago and have never "looked back." I have great confidence in its safety features (not just the brake, but riving knife, etc.) but work as if the safety features would not function. It gives me confidence in my safety. By the way, they make great equipment and their support has been super!
I heartily recommend the SawStop if you can afford it. I've had one for 5+ years and it's a great machine. The safety feature is for real, no doubt about it. But it's also a great saw -- cuts well, accurate and reliable. I had an old Delta contractors saw that I had tricked out with aftermarket stuff before this and the SS cabinetmaker's saw is WAY better in every way.
I was where you now are, but 20~25 years back. I bought a pair of spring loaded one-way rollers that mount atop the rip fence. My TS stock fence DID NOT lock down at both ends. After doing a bit of research, I went with the Excalibur fence. It floats into position on ball bearing rollers and locks down positively. Having the pair of full-length 'T' slots is a welcomed bonus, as I can easily attach shop made accessories. Faced with the choice again, I would pony-up the geeters again, in a heartbeat.
Does anyone have experience with operating the SawStop contractor saw without a dust collection system ?
I am facing the exact same issue: “ Modify old Rockwell contractor saw or buy new SawStop contractor saw?” One thing holding me back is that I don’t have a dust collection system. I just open both doors of my workshop and let the wind carry the dust away. I am an occasional woodworker so not too concerned about health issue with sawdust.
With the old Rockwell the sawdust just forms a pile under the saw. What happens with a SawStop ?
I'm the original poster. I ended up purchasing a Shop Fox fence, an Align-IT, and PALs alignment system for the Rockwell. The saw now does sweet rips, but I could use a bigger shop. I have rudimentary dust collection installed on it. I think the SawStops might not work so well without it.
I'm in a similar situation with my DeWalt contractor saw. The saving grace of the DeWalt is its rack and pinion fence. It's accurate. Saw Stop has a T-fence, and T-fences wobble. I have no trouble adjusting saw and fence parallelism. Blade angle stays locked in. I have a collection of carbide blades with custom riving knives and zero inserts. It's a great saw. But it's a bit underpowered at 1.75 hp, and the table is tiny. I'm trying to decide whether to pull the plug for a 54" Saw Stop with outfeed and mobile base. Tough decision. Money not an issue. Advice?
Money not an issue? Hold out your hand and imagine this...
I came THISCLOSE to losing my right thumb years back. I bought a sawstop.
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