Moisture meter.
What do I need. what am I looking for, and what and how do they work? Do all meters work the same, and does the meter work the same on different types of wood?
Thanks
Doc.
*None of the secrets of success will work unless you do!
Replies
The world is divided into two kinds of moisture meters, with pins and pinless. Pins have to be driven into the wood. Two small holes will result. They are said to be more accurate with roughsawn wood since because of the roughness the pinless meters don't make close contact with the wood.
Nonetheless, I prefer the pinless. It has always given reasonable results, even on rough sawn wood. And, I can take it to the lumberyard to check levels on boards. (I would not be at all comfortable pushing pins into boards I didn't own.) It also allows a more complete scan not just limited to where the pins have been set.
You do have to make an adjustment for the kind of wood. On some, typically the least expensive, you have to use a conversion table to adjust the reading for the wood. On others, you adjust the meter for the wood density. I have an ElectroPhysics 200, and it has a calibrated knob for the wood adjustment.
Hey Steve, another question. What is the approx. cost of either or? New - Used etc.?
Doc.*None of the secrets of success will work unless you do!
I agree with Steve. I've had a Wagner pinless for several years and use it every time I buy wood. If it's inaccurate by 1% it doesn't matter to me, certainly not when considering the ease of pinless use. Cost was then about $100, probably more now.
DR
Here is the url for ElectroPhysics. They sell direct, and have a lot of good info. They sell both pin and pinless type. Amazon, or any of the major dealers will have others listed. http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/e_index.htm
To all;
With the cost difference between pin type and pinless, being used by someone not really deep into wood working at this time which do you endorse and why?
Doc.*None of the secrets of success will work unless you do!
Still go with pinless. If you were into woodworking in a big way, you would be buying lumber in larger quantities, and almost all rough lumber, and could get away with sampling by the pin type. But if you ever buy S4S lumber you need to be able to check it before you bring it home. Too much moisture in the store or yard could then mean wasted lumber as it dries and warps.
Doc,
I buy wood by the pallet and have it delivered. Before it gets unloaded from the truck I have checked it with a pinless meter in 5-6 places, so I have a pretty good idea of what the moisture level is throughout the stack. Way back when I was buying individual boards at a yard I would go with a pinless meter in my pocket as well. You can't go through a yard sticking pins in a dozen places, especially when a fairly accurate and painless alternative exists. If I were doing rigorously accurate testing I would use pins, but for the common needs of buying and using stock a pinless is more suitable.
DR
As a reasonably experienced amateur, I have questioned the need for moisture meters. I understand the need for a professional shop where large quantities of wood are used at a time, but in my case, I buy only the wood I need for a given project at one time. Most of it comes from a supplier who has skimmed 2 sides and stored it for some period of time unknown to me under cover in buildings where the relative humidity is about the same as in the outdoors. This probably varies from 50% to 90%, depending upon the time of year. I bring the wood to my shop where the relative humidity in the summer will be about 50% and in the winter about 30%. Some of this wood may be used in a day or two, other will have been here for months. I have been working wood seriously for about 20 years, and have never had a problem that I could relate to moisture content. Am I just lucky?
Edited 1/17/2006 11:52 am ET by bobpowers
Its not necessary, but it is nice. There have been a few times I've taken a pass on wood that I needed to use quickly if it was wetter than would be desirable. Before I had my meter I would tend to sticker wood longer before I used it.
OK Guys,
Sounds like I have to go pinless. I thought so all along, but wanted to hear it from all of you. I have a little over 2,000 bd. ft. sitckered and stacked. I will be buying in the amount of at least 500 bd. ft. at a time. Mostly aromatic cedar, then Oak, Walnut, and Cherry. I buy from the saw mill and could check with the pin but I'll go pinless. Thanks
Doc*None of the secrets of success will work unless you do!
You can get an inexpensive moisture meter that works for under $40.00.I bought mine from Penn State, they have a website. Reads from 6 to 30 %. A year or so ago I had occasion to test it with an expensive meter. I got mostly the same readings except for one species of wood.Don't recall what it was. That particular wood I was off 3%. The others wood I tested with both meters had a difference of 1 to 2%.
This is accurate enough for me, all the tests were on lumber that was air drying.
mike
Mike
I.ve looked on the web to try and find pen state for the pinless moisture meter and can't find them. Would you or any one else recommend this unit or any different kind knowing the amount of wood I purchase and use? THANKS
Doc*None of the secrets of success will work unless you do!
Doc, the Penn State moisture meter has pins, they do not carry a pinless meter.
Penn State Industries I reccomended this meter because it is inexpensive and does the job for occasional needs. From your post I assumed you do not need a top of the line moisture meter.
mike
Mike
Thanks for the information on Pen State Inustries - Moisture meter. Most of the replied say pinless, your right my need is not that credicals, and I don't buy that much lumber by the piece or for an indavual projest. I would like to buy one for about or under $100.00.
any more information on this or any other question please write me.
Doc*None of the secrets of success will work unless you do!
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