I’m finishing up the exterior details of a maple corner cupboard and have a question on the joinery for the moldings. Were the moldings on 18th century furniture nailed on, glued on or a combination of both? Did some furniture makers glue, while others nailed and still others did both? Was there any set pattern or rule? If nailed on, did they worry about the appearance of the filled nail holes, because they would surely show. What did they use as filler? Or was that just the charm of period furniture, just as doweled tenons were.
All comments are welcome and would be most helpful.
Richard
Replies
Across the front of a piece you can usually glue it on because grain is running in the same direction. Across the side, small nails were used with perhaps a spot of glue in the middle and at the miter, later screws in elongated drilled holes in the side were used, and dovetail keys were used as well along the sides.
Several Taunton books and articles show these techniques. Check out the online article archives, you can buy reprints for a few bucks.
By far the most common method was to simply use a small cut brad which would flex enough to allow the case side to expand and contract without splitting or without the moulding splitting. And you don't nail it every two inches either. Use as few as you can get away with and as small a finishing nail or brad as you can get away with.
Elongated holes/screw with washer is also unbeatable and quick. Nothing shows from the outside of the piece since, of course, the screw doesn't come all the way through.
If you find the right spot on the moulding, a quirk or something along those lines, then small filled holes will be essentially invisible.
A little hide glue and sawdust is unbeatable as a filler.
Edited 11/1/2005 12:33 pm ET by TaunTonMacoute
Thanks for the insight. I assume then, that nails were not used on the front molding -or were they nailed and glued? Also, why hide glue for mixing with sawdust, rather than any other glue? - authenticity or is it some other characteristic of the glue? I've also heard of mixing sawdust with the finish (in this case shellac). What do you think of that?
Thanks again
Hide glue has the very great virtue to taking stain similarly, although not identically, to the solid wood. Besides in attaching moldings with the grain you need not use any clamps using hide glue. It can be "rubbed" in place. The high tack of the hide glue will hold it in place, and then pull it down tightly as it dries. I don't know why mixing with shellac wouldn't work though I would expect losts of shrinkage.
As far as 18th c. practices go they vary by region, between rural and urban, and among the various cabinetmakers. Nails were often used, but a small headless brad almost disappears. Lots of moldings were secured with glue blocks, even for cross grain construction. Apparently using a number of separated glue blocks is more secure than just gluing a solid piece. Of course when central heating subsequently appeared, lots of glue blocks were lost.
Edited 11/1/2005 1:58 pm ET by SteveSchoene
I would build the piece with hide glue. Therefore, I am assuming you would have some at the ready and could simply make your filler with it.
Nails are not necessary on the front moulding (assuming there is not a cross grain situation which there usually is not). Even if a period woodworker had used them on the front he would have taken steps to hide them in a quirk or perhaps underneath a large beaded feature. Just depends on the moulding profile as to where the nail could best be hidden and still do its job.
Hide glue will provide enough suck to hold the front piece in place while you clamp it or you can just rub it and hold it until the hide glue hits the gel set stage (a couple of minutes). Use the real stuff at this step, you don't want the prepared hide glue that has urea added to slow the gel set.
As Steve mentioned glue blocks were certainly used but problematic. Eugene Landon is a noted furnituremaker who builds exact reproductions even down to details he know will result in stress cracks down the road, if not almost immediately.
Decide on your philosophical approach and go from there.
Edited 11/1/2005 3:28 pm ET by TaunTonMacoute
Thanks to all for your input. The info will help in completing this project.
R.
Good luck.
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