After years of using a router when I occassionally needed a profile, I’ve recently plunged into molding planes. I really like them so far, and feel the slope slipping away beneath me again. But it raises lots of new questions. I’m happy to hear any tips for using, cleaning, sharpening, etc. I have some knowledge based on conversations with some molding plane afficionados and the video Taunton posted here recently among other places, but I always appreciate Knots member perspectives and the details they often add to topics.
One particular question: What was the preferred method of attaching stick molding on period pieces in various grain orientation situations. I assume glue when the grains ran correctly and finish nails when they did not, but I’m curious as I’ve rarely made projects where I was attaching sticking as opposed to routing profiles on component edges. Did the period guys take any steps to make sure mitered corners of stick stayed gap free, for example?
Thanks for any input.
Replies
I'm far from being an expert, but the couple of old pieecs of furniture I have, all have the moldings nailed on with small cut nails. The nails give enough to allow for expansion across the grain, and since the face frames are joined to the carcases at the front, as long as the joint is tight when you install it, it shouldn't open up through wood movement. The molding doesn't change shape and the carcase stays together so the molding joint should too.
If you're really worried about it, you could use more nails near he front of the carcase to hold that joint together, forcing all the movement to happen towards the back of the piece.
HB
Sam,
Period guys had less to worry about as regards seasonal movement, in the days before central heat. Quite often, moldings applied across the ends of case pieces were nailed and glued. As the piece came into the age of central heat, either the glue has failed, or the case ends have split. Sometimes a bit of each.
Often, in lieu of a small applied mold nailed to the edge of a case, (a base molding for example,) the mold might be worked on the edge of a wider board, and the whole thing applied (nailed and glued) to the bottom of the case, with the mold projecting the desired amount.
In the instance of lids for blanket chests, the end molds sometimes are actually fairly stout battens, held with tenons to the ends of the lid (think breadboard end). Thus they aid in preventing warping as well as covering the crack between lid and case.
I also have seen moldings held in place with wooden pins, instead of nails. Seems to me to be a Germanic technique.
Ray
Seems to me whatever they did didn't work. An awful lot of 18th casework has cracked sides. I've also seen a good share of open miters. My random sampling also revealed a lot of essentially quartersawn components including carcass sides. We often focus on joinery, but their stock choices surely had an influence on what survived and what didn't. Also keep in mind that what we see is what survived.
The only suggestion I have off the top of my head is to stick one long piece, then saw it, and place the moldings in order on the furniture. That way, you reduce any mismatch.
Adam
First, thanks, all, for the responses so far!
Adam, I suppose for miters I was thinking about things like splines or some such. I could also imagine mini sliding dovetails (or short lengths of the same idea) for attachment of stick to allow movement. I'm not student of period stuff, so I threw it out there, wondering ...
I've never seen anything like that, Sean. Not on cabinetry. That doesn't mean no one ever did it or it isn't a good idea.adam
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