Replies

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Mar 02, 2010 10:00am | #1

   Is the blade contacting the guard?

   Is the noise present only when you are cutting wood or does it continue anytime the saw is on?

   Checking the brushes is simple - find the small 'black?' brush caps on the motor. They will probably have a screw-driver slot. Unscrew one - but keep pressure on it as the small spring inside will want to pop out. One look will tell you if the carbon is worn down too far.

2. 
   RickL | Mar 02, 2010 11:20am | #2

   That type of motor will not have brushes.  Motors found on routers and such have brushes.  Take the motor to an electric motor repaqir shop or you might do more damage  trying to fix it yourself.  Actually the saw was made by Toolkraft in Springfield MA.

3. 
   tom77 | Mar 03, 2010 09:57am | #3

   That saw has a gear box that drives a secondary stub shaft.  The gear box is the source of the noise.  I agree, the noise is nearly unbearable.  A friend owned one of those, and I thought he was crazy.

   Best regards, Tom.

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Mar 03, 2010 10:53am | #4

   If he doesn't use the "secondary stub shaft" would it be possible to remove the shaft and the mating gear? In other words, how difficult is it to access the gear box?

   Jerry

4. 
   Streamline | Mar 03, 2010 11:05pm | #5

   There is no rubbing of the blade to the guard.  The noise occurs with our without a load.  Am I hearing then it is NOT the motor that is the problem, but rather, the gear box is the culprit?  Is there a way to fix it (disassemble the motor assembly?)  I don't use the saw for anything other than cutting wood with the blade. Thx.

5. 
   a1nick | Mar 06, 2010 09:35am | #6

   I have the same saw, including the original manual.  It's a sturdy built saw, accurate, with many features that are not present on current radial arm saws. 

   Sounds like the bearings. That's how I obtained this saw a guy gave it to me in the early 80's (manulal shows a 1972 date) because it was noisy.  Replaced the bearings (common item) and have been using it ever since, ripping, mitering, routing, drilling, and on and on.  I need to replace the brushes now.

1. 
   Streamline | Mar 15, 2010 03:32pm | #7

   Bearing? Sounds great but ....

   Can you tell me what you did to access the bearings and where you bought the part?  I would not mind disassembling the motor, but want to know how you did it ....  Help!!!

1. 
   Streamline | Mar 15, 2010 03:34pm | #8

   routing too?

   Can you send me a picture of how you are attaching the bits to the routing mechanism?  I'd like to learn it because with a squared table, it would be so much better to use it as a router as you have.  thx.

1. 
   a1nick | Mar 20, 2010 12:48am | #10

   Routing

   The manual doesn't have a good picture of the routing collet.  I will take some actual pics this wekend and post them.

2. 
   a1nick | Mar 20, 2010 12:46am | #9

   Bearings

   I purchased the bearings from an auto parts stores (when they really were parts stors).  The bearings will have an identification number somewhere stamped on them (or should have if they are quality bearings) and should be readily available, probably on line   I recently boughttthe brushes from McMaster Carr.

   I am attaching the parts diagrams (only copied those pages not the entire manual) for the complete saw with parts list (probably not much help but it's part of the manual). You should be able to take apart the saw with the diagrams.  Hope it works when I try to attach the files.. 

   Do you have the router collet?  The drill spindle takes a standard drill chuck.

   Ther are a lot of fine tuning adjustments that make this saw great to work with.

   
6. 
   paularon | Jul 20, 2010 10:27pm | #11

   Montgomery Wards Radial Arm Saw

   Hello gentlemen,

   I have a question.  My husband has been working endlessly trying to fix his radial arm saw.  The problem is that he can't get the column to move.  The Elevating Crank on the front of the machine turns all the way around.  He has taken the whole thing apart, but can't get it to move up or down.  Can any of you give us some suggestions?  We would really appreciate it!

   Thanks!

7. 
   paularon | Jul 20, 2010 10:27pm | #12

   Montgomery Wards Radial Arm Saw

   Hello gentlemen,

   I have a question.  My husband has been working endlessly trying to fix his radial arm saw.  The problem is that he can't get the column to move.  The Elevating Crank on the front of the machine turns all the way around.  He has taken the whole thing apart, but can't get it to move up or down.  Can any of you give us some suggestions?  We would really appreciate it!

   Thanks!

8. 
   gdm1952 | Oct 12, 2010 09:20am | #13

   Need a switch for this saw

   I have had this saw for 30 + years works very well. I bought one because my dad had one as well.  I need the trigger swich. Does any one know how I can get a replacement?.

   Also this saw is somewhat noisy. it use a brushed high speed 20,000 RPM motor that is geared down to normal blade speeds The gearing down and gears themselves will be noisy, Every few years I take it apart and grease the gears. Thar quiet them down for a couple of years. Be careful with the grease since there is a slip clutch on the blade output. Too much grease on that item will cause the clutch to slip.

   Thanks

   Gary Miller

1. 
   knfesc | May 28, 2016 06:38pm | #15

   Lubricating the Gears

   Hi Gary,

   When th eswitch on mine broke several years ago I bought a standard trigger switch used for a standard circular saw and replaced it.

   I have had my saw since the mid-50s and did take the drive housing apart in the mid 70d but have forgotten how I did it.

   Please share with me info on how to access and lubricate the gears.

   Thanks.

   Keith

9. 
   campfirejo | Mar 13, 2011 12:13pm | #14

   Montgomery ward Radial Arm

   Hello,

   You wouldn't happen to have the demensions of the table and ripe fence for this saw by any chance? Mine came w/o a fence and I need to locate the correct position for the rip fence.

   Thanks,

   Joel