Replies

1. 
   QCInspector | Jul 09, 2006 12:30am | #1

   There was a thread recently that discussed something similar for a large round tabletop. Maybe some of it will apply to your circumstances.
   http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=30483.1

1. 
   JMartinsky | Jul 09, 2006 01:31am | #3

   Good post, thanks!John

2. 
   philip | Jul 09, 2006 01:30am | #2

   John,Why do you want to use that bit for a bevel like that??? Why not get a chamfer cutter to suit?If you must use that bit and you are worried about changing the depth of cut by use of a collar(not washer) instead of the bearing there should be no problem. I assume the collar diameter will be greater than the bearing so the cut will in fact be reduced(is this an exception in your case?:)). A washer would not do-too thin.
   There will be a heat question because of the friction so try not to put too much pressure on the collar, and obviously a cutter of that size in a router should be run at the slowest speed.
   You have not said what type and size of router you have- it needs to be substantial enough for those big cutters and have a suitable speed range.I think the max rpm for those big bits is about 10-12 thousand .
   How big are the workpieces? Their width will dictate if you need to mount them on a carriage so you can handle them safely.
   The use of a starter peg in the router table will make it easy to start the cut without risk.
   What guard does that router table have?
   I would far rather do that job (if I have the right idea of what it is)on the ideal machine WHICH IS A SHAPER.Then there is the compass plane....Philip Marcou

   
   

   ---

   Edited 7/8/2006 6:48 pm by philip

1. 
   JMartinsky | Jul 09, 2006 01:47am | #4

   Dear Philip,
   I apologize, if I haven't been clear. The "bevel" ,as I am calling it, is in the horizontal plane. It will extend approximately 1" from the edge of the sill to the horizontal part of the sill. Thus aiding rain to run off. I can't seem to find a cutter like that except for those large panel raising bits. I want to use a larger bearing so that the "flat" part of the raised panel (The part that gets trapped in the rail & style) is eliminated. The rest of the info is as follows:1) Router is 3hp Bosch, variable speed, electronic feedback.
   2) Work pieces are approximately 2x8 @ 5'
   3) Guard: Is what ever the table came with. Aluminum, split, fairly substantial.
   4) Shaper: I have two 5hp Deltas in my shop. I have never used them, I have never even seen anyone use one. I don't want to start on this project.
   5) Replacement bearing: as per the manufacturer, I will not be creating my own.Thanks Philip,John

1. 
   philip | Jul 09, 2006 01:55am | #5

   Well it should be a breeze then. If you are a bit nervous then do it in two stages .Since the work piece is 8 inches wide you can handle it safely.
   Pity about the TWO shapers....Philip Marcou

   Edited 7/8/2006 6:57 pm by philip

1. 
   JMartinsky | Jul 09, 2006 04:13am | #12

   Dear Philip,
   So you think that the router bit idea is sound? I was planning on doing the cuts in multiple passes. Spanish Cedar is pretty soft, but I would prefer to error on the side of caution. The shapers are actually a friends. He had another friend that was getting out of the business and sold off his whole shop. Having no place to store them, I had the room, so there are here, to be used at some future time. Thanks Again,John

1. 
   philip | Jul 09, 2006 04:42am | #16

   Yes, it is workable, although my first choice would be the shaper. Then again, if there were only one or two I would use my compass plane(circular plane). I think this is an underated plane that is still made by Record.I have two-an ancient Stanley (USA made) and a new Record- and it is of good quality.Philip Marcou

2. 
   dgreen | Jul 09, 2006 04:47am | #17

   I could be mistaken but I don't think Record is making any planes anymore. I think they were part of a Newell Group buyout along with Marples. I have heard that Anant aquired the molds and rights.
   Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb

3. 
   philip | Jul 09, 2006 04:57am | #18

   Yes, it is a likely scenario. I did buy my Record compass plane some years ago, and it has no Anant features.Philip Marcou

4. 
   dgreen | Jul 09, 2006 05:32am | #19

   By "features" do you perchance mean poor fit and finish? :)
   Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb

5. 
   philip | Jul 09, 2006 06:14am | #20

   Exactly.Philip Marcou

2. 
   dgreen | Jul 09, 2006 02:02am | #6

   You must be a rich man with a very big shop to have two fine shapers like that taking up all that space and never used. What was the purpose in aquiring them? I agree whith Philip they are by far more suited to and safer for the work you have planned. They are no more difficult to use than a router table. If you are not willing to give it a try then I would suggest using a vertical panel raising bit in your router table. Easier to adjust the depth of cut by raising and lowering the bit and moving the fence than to monkey around finding a bearing of the right size.
   Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb

1. 
   philip | Jul 09, 2006 02:59am | #10

   I don't think that would work as it is on a radius.Philip Marcou

2. 
   JMartinsky | Jul 09, 2006 04:17am | #13

   Dear Dg,
   Oh no, no rich man here, at least not financially. The shapers are a friends, I am holding the tools for him as he bought out another friends shop. The vertical panel bit won't work for me as the sills are arced and I would have to "roll" the material through the router table and that is a bit precarious for me. Thanks ,John

3. 
   QCInspector | Jul 09, 2006 02:13am | #8

   With the extra bit of info you have provided, I would like to add that you can use the tablesaw. -With the blade tilted to the desired angle, and a tall fence, you feed the vertically held sill into the blade while pivoting over the blade.
   -To make it easier to control you can make a curved table to receive the sill that can be clamped to the saw top, the side of the tall fence, or even the throat plate.
   -Cleanup the saw marks with a hand plane or by sanding.With the small amount you have to remove you could do the whole thing with a hand plane or if you're comfortable with one, a hand held electric plane.

1. 
   JMartinsky | Jul 09, 2006 04:21am | #15

   Dear QC,
   I agree that your idea has merit, but for me, I would prefer not to make this cut on the TS. If it were a straight cut, yes, but not this one.Thanks,John

3. 
   Rennie | Jul 09, 2006 02:06am | #7

   I know I'm going to be sorry I asked, but....

   How tight is the radius of the arc? Have you considered using your TS?

   Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral.
   Frank Lloyd Wright

1. 
   QCInspector | Jul 09, 2006 02:17am | #9

   Didn't mean to step on your suggestion. I was typing (slowly) while you posted. Were you thinking along the same lines?

1. 
   Rennie | Jul 09, 2006 03:08am | #11

   I was. Feel free to step in anytime. Depending on the radius, it seems this could be done safely on the TS.Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright

2. 
   JMartinsky | Jul 09, 2006 04:19am | #14

   Dear Rennie,
   The arc is a 10' radius. If it were a straight cut, I would use the TS, but I would have to roll the piece through the blade, which is a bit scary, even for me.Thanks,John