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I tried searching the Knots archives, other websites and my reference books, but couldn’t find the answers I needed, so I thought I’d take up some space here. I’ll try to give you as much background information as possible:
I’m going to be using shellac for the first time, and mixed my first batch yesterday. I used #1 Orange Shellac flakes from Lee Valley, mixed with a denatured alcohol solvent I picked up at the local hardware store (Sunnyside brand Denatured Alcohol Solvent/Shellac Thinner, containing less than 4% methanol). I made a 1# cut.
I stirred it well, every couple of hours during the day, until I couldn’t “feel” (through my stir stick) any more flakes. It has been sitting overnight — it’s about 24 hours now since I started the mix.
The shellac in the jar is still brown and opaque, although not particularly cloudy (in other words, I can’t see through it, but I can’t see large visible particles or sediment floating around, either). Having never physically seen mixed shellac before, I’m only going by photographs, and in photos shellac-in-use seems to be somewhat clear, like a light syrup.
The residue on my stir stick dried fairly clear and plenty hard.
Although I won’t be ready to use the shellac for about a week (so rushing to do the finishing is not a concern), I’m wondering:
1) If the shellac should be clear before use, and if so, should it be clear after 24 hours? (Everything I’ve read says to “wait overnight” before using, but nothing seems to indicate whether or not the dissolving and settling could take longer.)
2) Is the muddiness/opaqueness due to the wax (I’m assuming there’s about 4% wax in the flakes, since they weren’t advertised as dewaxed) and/or other sediments?
3) If the muddiness is due to the wax and sediments, can it be filtered out now or should I wait — however long it takes — until the wax and sediments settle out, and then decant the good stuff?
4) What would be the effect on my finish (shellac only, on a pine blanket chest) if there is still some residual wax in the shellac (4% or less), or sediment? Would the finish end up cloudy, too, or is 4% a low enough figure?
THANKS in advance for your advice. Maybe I’m overthinking all of this, but I’d rather tap into your knowledge now, before diving in and screwing up.
David
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Shellac will indeed look cloudy, but this is normal. I don’t use anything but dewaxed shellac anymore, but it too is cloudy, but not nearly to the extent that shellac with wax is. Despite its being cloudy, the finish will dry to a surface, which is crystal clear. You are in for a surprise, if you’ve never used shellac before. Except for tabletops, I don’t think there is a better finish. It has a proven track record, easy application, excellent appearance, and rubs out great. You can create any level of finish from an oiled look to a deep gloss. You can decant the wax, but I have never done this. The wax content won’t harm the finish in any way, but it will prevent the use of most other types of finish over it. According to the description of your use, this won’t be a problem.
*Rob --Thank you for your advice. I'm looking forward to seeing the results on the blanket chest... the finish looked great on my stir stick!One more question (am I over my limit yet?!): I was also going to use the shellac as a sealer between stain (TransTint), glaze (Behlen's Shading and Glazing Stain) and wax for a Mission-style finish on a red oak CD cabinet. Do you think the wax content of my shellac (I'm guessing 4%) will be too much? If so, should I decant my next batch, or just buy some dewaxed shellac for this purpose?Thanks again... I've learned a lot from the advice you've given others, and have enjoyed looking at the photos of your work.David
*I’m not sure how to answer this one. I use to, when maple was cheap, take and make small inexpensive side tables out of it, and then stain and glazed them to look like cherry. At that time I used standard orange shellac, and I never had any trouble, with compatibility. I did not use the behlen product, so I’m not sure, but I don’t think it would be a problem. Having said that, dewaxed shellac is so cheap, that it would be worth it to buy some, and be sure of compatibility.I have not tried to decant the wax myself, but I have read about doing just that, so it may work. Sorry I could not be of more help. I appreciate your comments about my postings in the gallery. I figure if your going to contribute your opinions and advice, you should “put your money where your mouth is” and show your work. This way people can decide what weight to give those opinions and advice.
*Rob -- thanks again, for the additional advice.David(awake at 4:00 a.m., hoping to see the meteor shower but socked in with fog and clouds)
*I am fiddling with how to refurbish an old polishied piano. The polish whie it looks terrible reamalgamates fairly easily back to a good shine. The problem is the locations where all of the old shelac has come off - probably through impact but also with wear on some corners.Orange shellac just isnt doing the trick with retaining the very dark colour of the original and I cant seem to find a local supplier of the various other varieties.I have been advised by one of the local polishers (they do very good work from a piece of old tas myrtle repaired after an Army move) to drop in a nail and let it rust.Questions:Does anyone know of a local (Australian east coast) supplier of darker shellac, andHas anyone heard of the rusty nail trick?
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