more tablesaw blade discussions
woohoo, I just wandered through the big long posts(yes thats plural starting posts) about saw blades… and Forest_girls love of her freud blades…. and a bunch of peoples love of wanting to see forest_girl as a pin-up(no I dont want to start that conversation over, but I guess I just did) so I figured I would start this whole huggabaloo up again and ask some more questions…
I think I have it down that a good ripping blade is the 24 tooth model(if you got a jointer to back you up), and a 40 tooth is the big competition(freud f410 series vs forrest woodworker II) for general all around shi..tuff…. and an 80 tooth is great for cross cutting… so whats a 60 tooth for?
Did anyone ever get the link for that ones guys absolute proof thingy that his brand of blade was 2-5 times better than everyone elses?
Kinda off topic, but I hate the splinter out/break out on the back side of my dewalt compound mitre saw.. I tried going to a 80 tooth blade, but I still get quite a bit of splintering.. any way other than backer boards to curb this more? (lazy aint I!)
Replies
Personally, I like the 60 tooth for crosscuting. The 80 tooth I use for miter joints and composition materials. But, it mostly depends on the type of blade tip that each blade has as well as the hook angle.
Generally, an 80 tooth negative hook will do best on a miter saw.
Hmmmm, I dont think were going to comment on Forest Girl being a pinup Poster Gal..Cause somethings are just better left alone...ROFLAO........
I was dumb once and went down that road and she stuck more pins in a voodoo doll than you could ever count, I had aches for months..LOL..and then was the time SARGE & Dennis tried having me help em lift her beloved Walnut wooohoo she was upset....
ToolDoc
Edited 1/2/2003 5:56:17 PM ET by TOOLDOC
ToolDoc
I didn't think I would ever see you back down from trying to get every gal you knew, and many you dind't, on a poster:-) I wonder what the walls of your shop look like :-)Scott
Scott's Sharpening Service
Glendale, Az.
Scott
I've know Doc for 5 or 6 months now. I bet those walls look exactly as you have a mental picture that they look. He's got a Guinness collection of circular saws. I bet his walls are laid out in this pattern.
Hanging circular saw, poster. Hanging circular saw, poster. Etc, etc, etc. ha..ha..
Have a good day...
sarge..jt
SARGE: Sorry that IM letting you guys down but I dont have any pin up posters..oh dang..<G> Guess I will have to try and find one just for you guys..LOL...
ToolDoc
Sarge
I think we finally got ToolDoc into a corner.:-) As long as I have known him he has been trying to get a Delta girls poster. Sounds like for political reasons he really can't display any posters:-)
I suppose I shouldn't tell him about the SI calenders on the walls of my shopScott
Scott's Sharpening Service
Glendale, Az.
SCOTT: Hmmm I didnt say nothing before but you forced me to play my hand..<G> I have a Ridgid calander & at work the "Guys" have Playboy & Hustler calanders.."But I dont look at em..LOL.... maybe you can work on Delta OO7 & Rock to cough up a few Delta Gal pin up posters for us Loyal Delta Club Members..
PS.. and dont be trying to be getting in any trouble here with Forest Girl..
ToolDoc
Let's see if I have this right: Bill didn't inhale, and you don't open your eyes, right? Oh no, wait a minute -- they must be open for you to find the door. You're just careful not to focus them! ROFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jamie: Oh no your teaming up with Sarge & Scott..<G>.. I really dont look at them..I wear glasses and take em off when near the pics,well I might of took a little peek...LOL..... Guess I should of never mentioned those Delta Gal Pin Ups in the first place..some day I will learn..Hmmmm....
Just minding my own business in the Maintenance shop... ToolDoc
Scott
I think trying to get a guy like Doc backed in a corner would be like climbing a greased flagpole. I believe there is only one person that can control him, and she resides in the same house-hold. I bet he's as quiet as a church mouse when the First Lady is around. ha..ha..
BTW, it's about 40 degrees in Atlanta and the wind is hitting about 18-20 knots. How about sending some of that Arizona weather this way.
Have a good evening......
sarge..jt
Scott: Your scaring me cause your sounding like my wife--ROFLMAO
Sorry but cant po my little Forest Buddy- - shes to cute-would make a darn nice pin-up Gal but aint going there....
as far as the walls of my shop goes 2 are pegboard,rest are paneling with Remington ,Winchester and other gun related tin signs & advertsing memorobilla type stuff clocks,thermometers,mirrors,etc.. but there are about 4 nudie pics of some "Nice" Gals I had met in some "Gentlemans" Clubs My Friends had hauled me into over the years while away on buisness trips..<G>...
ToolDoc
Ahhhhh, will I ever live down the voodoo thing? ROFL!
Looking through Freud's catalog for 60-tooth blades, it appears that they are recommended for thicker material than the 80-tooth blades. Specifically, I see that they offer:
I remember something from a recent Charles post about not using an 80-tooth blade on a miter saw for cutting molding because with a steep angle, you're effectively cutting thicker stock. Maybe he'll pitch in here, 'cause my memory isn't all that reliable.
"The guy" with the proof about whatever blade he was touting ran off to another forum and never did provide a link to the alleged proof.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jamie: Will you ever live down the VooDoo thing?? Yup now that the Doctors have me on strong pain meds and IM now over the pain it is all forgotten....LOL..
I have to say IM impressed with you & SARGE you are both quite up on the Freud blades and a big help to the rest of us..I can even say my two buddies here know there stuff....
ToolDoc
Grouch
I agree with Howie. I use and prefer a 60 tooth Freud for cross-cutting. I use their 80 tooth when I want a straight cross-cut that will be open on the project. It gives a glass type cut and reqiures little sanding.
I also agree with FG that the 80 will have more of a tendency to deflect on a more angled cut and with thicker material. I do use the Thin-Kerf with a 5" stiffner when I go to the 80 tooth.
Luck
sarge..jt
Sarge, I'm not sure it's so much that the 80-tooth would deflect as it is that there might be too many teeth in the stock -- as the angle of the bevel increases the amount of wood (working thickness, so to speak) increases, and the 80-tooth is getting out of its element. That would overwork the saw and the blade.
If my interpretation is wrong, hopefully Charles will see and correct (no! not the ruler, please!).forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jamie
Being the non-engineer, your theory sounds good. I do know that I get poorer cuts with the 80 tooth when I use it on angle cuts. It's easy to see how too many of those small teeth would be engaged in an angle cut.
Have a good evening (BTW, did you get your computer problem solved?)
sarge..jt
The comp. problem is on the old computer, and I've not been able to tear myself away from the new one, LOL!
Got to get myself one of those 60-tooth blades. Hmmmmm, how's the wallet? Ooops, not so good! Oh well, won't take too long to save up. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jamie
Save up and get the 60 tooth and a 24 tooth for ripping. You will be glad you did. Your cuts will improve with the proper blade matched for the job. Is it a pain to change blades often. Somewhat, but the results will take away the pain and increase the width of your grin.
Too the shop for recepticle addition.. Regards
sarge..jt
This is probably going to start another chain of posts in 14 more directions. I like to use a 60 tooth on the table saw for cutting plexiglass. I always remove it and keep it just for plexiglass. It seems like if I use a blade that has been used for wood it chips the plastic more.
As far as the splintering on the back...try masking tape. Just keep a roll close by the saw. It seems to work well for me and peels right off.
What you are seeing is normal. It takes a sharper blade to cut the plexiglass. You add some dullnes and a little pitch build up that causes friction and heat and the blade will not cut the plexiglass as well. If you are using a 10x60 tcg dedicated on a tablsaw for that operation you can ask your sharpener to dial in a little more top relief next time.Scott
Scott's Sharpening Service
Glendale, Az.
Maybe a Negative hook angle blade on the saw might help get a tear out free cut.
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