Replies

1. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Jun 29, 2003 11:54pm | #1

   Here's a link to an article that should explain the how to.

   http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/articles/mortiseandtenon.cfm

   Cheers,

   eddie

   ps:  it may be preferable to cut the mortice before you turn the back rail - will give a cleaner joint .  Not impossible to lay out the mortice once you're done but - to mark a line parallel to the axis of the turning, use a small length of scrap 90 degree steel or aluminum angle - it will sit only parallel to the axis of the back rail

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/29/2003 4:58:29 PM ET by eddie (aust)

1. 
   ron61 | Jun 30, 2003 02:31am | #2

   Thanks but really looking for info. about chopping a mortise with a Mortise Chisel.

   Like do you start at the middle work toward the ends- How deep of cuts should do in Red Oak- How to used the chisel. 

1. 
   Steinmetz | Jun 30, 2003 05:05am | #3

   Hey Beans,  Since I've mortised thousands of lock sets and every conceivable type of door hardware, by hand, I'll clue you in.

   First :Place the work on a solid surface as you don't want 'bounce' or 'kick back'

   Second: Sharpen the chisel to start and after a while ,'stone' it on an oilstone when you feel it's necessary.

   (If the mortising has to be done with the work free standing,                 (Such as a chair) tape a wrapped heavy brick or sashweight opposite the work as a 'back up' to 'buck 'and absorb any 'recoil')

   Third: Mark the outline of the mortise with a sharp knife

   Forth: Use a round mallet or, as I did for fifty years, the side of a claw hammer. Don't look at the hammer or the chisel's handle,while striking, but DO watch the chisel's edge .

   Fifth:  Place the cutting edge precisely on the incised outline with it's bevel always facing towards the 'waste', hold the chisel perpendicular to the work

   Sixth:Following the outline, gently tap the lines in deeper around the four sides. When all four are insised, go over one more time to make it deeper (3/32")

   Seventh:Using a chisel less wider than then the narrow width of the mortise, hold the chisel at a 45 deg angle with the bevel away from the 'waste',and  1/8" from the end.'

   Chip away a series of saw teeth all the way across the outline.

   Just before reaching the opposite end , shovel the loose pieces out of the mortise then clip off the last saw tooth with the bevel turned about face.

    .Don't hit too hard . Now that you have created a 1/8" deep mortise you can continue in the same manner, or ,to save work, bore a row of holes , (Side by each) less wide than the mortise and then continue as before.

   When you reach the botton, you may have to 'lever out' the waste with a scooping motion, OR, you can buy a Cranked neck chisel for that purpose. Stein.

   If you plan to glue the joint be sure to make the mortise 1/8" shorter than the tenon (to leave room for trapped air and glue)

   (Hydraulics you know?)

   Edited 6/29/2003 10:17:04 PM ET by steinmetz

   Edited 6/29/2003 10:19:11 PM ET by steinmetz

1. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Jun 30, 2003 11:24am | #4

   Hi ILB/steinmetz,

   Let's try again, with correct links!  (msg 5 deleted and rewritten here)

   http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/howto/joints/mortise/index.php

   http://www.gre.ac.uk/~eduweb/showcase/d&t/schools/resmat/woodjoints/mortice&.htm

   I teach woodwork now at high school to the senior level and am a cabinetmaker by training.

   Start cutting out the mortice in the middle of the waste as shown in the above links.

   The rule of thumb that I use to teach students is that all joints are either 1/3 or 2/3 of the thickness deep, except in the case where there is the word 'half or halving' in the joint.  In the case of a mortice, it is approx 2/3 deep, lap dovetails are 2/3 deep, rebates (US rabbet) are 2/3 of the thickness, trenches(US dadoes)/grooves are 1/3 thickness, etc... you get the idea.

   While realising that steinmetz has cut a lot of these joints by hand and agreeing with the bulk of his procedure and setting out suggestions, I still suggest that with a morticing chisel, especially, you cut the joint accurately with a chisel equal to the width of the intended mortice, instead of nibbling away at the edges with a slightly smaller chisel as you lever out the waste.  Once you get the hang of it, the clean edges actually guide the chisel squarely into the waste.  I start in the middle of the joint and slowly nibble out both ways for the first 2-3mm, then start to cut out the joint once the shoulders of the mortice are defined clearly, chipping away as steinmetz suggests..

   Hope that this helps (this time),

   eddie.

   Edited 6/30/2003 4:43:22 AM ET by eddie (aust)

2. 
   Crunk | Jul 01, 2003 12:57am | #6

   First, define the mortise by powering the chisel by hand all the way across your layout (small chips).  Leave at least a sixteenth at the ends untouched.

   Excavate the middle third or so of the mortise to finished depth (a sixteenth deeper than your tenon is long) and then work towards each end bringing the rest of the joint to finished depth.  The last paring cuts clean up the sixteenth left at each end to the layout lines.

2. 
   Froed | Jun 30, 2003 01:25pm | #5

   Beans,

   Yet another link: http://www.amgron.clara.net/mortise/mortisingindex.htm