This thread hopefully might be sub-titled “A collective review”.
Following from the essence of a previous discussion, where interest was raised in the differences between chisel types, I thought it might make for some discussion to describe how others on this forum might use these (or their) mortice chisels.
From top to bottom: Witherby sash mortice, Ward traditional (?) mortice, Ward Oval Bolstered mortice (aka “Pigsticker” … bite your tongue says Joel), and a vintage Japanese (make unknown). All are 1/4″ wide and taper in their cross section.
The two Ward chisels were re-handled by myself. The top one came with a replacement handle that was hooped (looked a bit like a Japanese chisel handle on steroids) – and I dislike hoops – so I modelled this one on a Stanley/LN handle. The OBM chisel handle is modelled on the traditional style but a little slimmer (but still large).
I do not use the sash mortice chisel. I thought I might because of the height, which is why I bought it. I had this idea that this would aid in orientating the chisel, that is, in the vertical. But I found the long, skinny blade lost “feel” and my experience was that I was picking at the wood, not cutting into it.
Much of the time I do not hammer downward, prefering instead to pare out the top half of the mortice. Both Wards work well here. Both have a 20 degree primary bevel and a 35 degree secondary micro bevel. They are as sharp as any of my paring chisels and have no difficulty taking shavings in end grain.
The oval handle of the OBM chisel is not necessarily the most comfortable but I think that it does contribute to an easier orientation. The round handle of the other Ward (the “traditional one”?) is great in the hand but I find that it is more finicky initially to set square against the line. Once paring, it is however the nicest to hold.
Both the Wards remove waste quickly. The traditional design seems the more “powerful” when hammering for depth. But the OB is preferred for overall feel and ease.
What of the dainty Japanese mortice chisel? It is just too small and too light to push easily. With its 30 degree single bevel it does not penetrate as easily as the Wards. So I tend to reserve its use for squaring up the ends of routed mortices.
Looking forward to the comments/views of others…
Regards from Perth
Derek
Replies
Hi Derek,
It's easier to show than to describe how to use a mortising chisel.
Basically, hammer the chisel in and then lever/twist the chip out, depending on how close the chisel is to the sidewall
The key to technique that's not often described is that the waste is easily 'popped' out by twisting the chisel - of course, this becomes harder with a mortising chisel so you have to resort to brute force to lever the waste out.
I cut a mortice by leaving a skinny 1/16th at each end of the mortice and then chopping out the mortice in a line, maybe increasing in depth by 1/8" to 3/16" each pass. The flat side of the chisel (the back) faces the first cut, so the bevel is pushing waste into the hole the chisel has created. When I reach the end of the mortice, I turn the chisel around to cut a square shoulder at the other end.
[hammer in chisel, lever out chip, move 1/4" along, repeat]
If the chisel's skinnier than the mortice, then it's an easy matter to hammer in the chisel and then twist the chisel to pop the waste out without damaging the sidewalls. Maybe 20-30% quicker than the first way. Last step in this one is to take the widest chisel you have and pare the sidewall in one step.
Another traditional technique was to cut a 'V' from the middle of the mortice and make the 'V' bigger and deeper until it got halfway through, flip the workpiece over and repeat until the two points of the 'V' touched and then chop/pare out the balance of the waste.
Sounds as though I should have taken that video of how to cut a mortice on that project last week.
Cheers,
eddie
Edited 4/17/2007 5:49 pm by eddiefromAustralia
Hi Andrew
Thanks for the reply.
I don't think that there is a single "right" way to cut/chop/pare mortices. I have experimented with different methods. One aspect I am attempting to elicit is whether the method one uses is dictated by the chisel you choose, or vice versa.
Regards from Perth
Derek
One aspect I am attempting to elicit is whether the method one uses is dictated by the chisel you choose, or vice versa.
Hi Derek,
I think the answer for me is yes to a great degree--that is my method depends on the chisel, for the reason Andrew gave. While I do use my sash mortise chisels on small work and softwoods [they have very shallow bevel angles], I use them the same as the OBM chisels. I rarely need to lever a chip, but I think that is due to the shape of the primary bevel.
When I have used firmers or bench chisels to mortise, I basicaly use Andrew's drive/twist method. But that is because of the ability of the chisel to sink in further without pushing the waste forward/loose.
Take care, Mike
I have a sash mortice chisel that I never use. I didn't know exactly what it was called until now - it is essentially identical to the one you've pictured. Thanks.
I use the "pigsticker" kind - I bought some of the Ray Isles sizes from toolsforworkingwood. I thought the literature that came with them was helpful and made sense. I instantly made it a part of the cosmos of my woodworking philosophical universe (as filled with quasars and black holes and unexplored space phenomena as that cosmos already is!).
I have admired the rehandled bolstered chisels that you've shown photos of before. Take care.
Derek, mine all look like this one- Swedish Eskilstuna- Anton Berg and son with the shark emblem.They are meant to take a hefty wallop and lever action by design- so that is what I did until the green button took over at an early stage. Actually I used that one this afternoon - to square the ends of a milled mortice in a plane handle made from African Blackwood. That stuff is murderous when using ordinary chisels to chop with, but no sign of defeatshowed on that chisel. I have seen these at second hand shops here so they would be in Oz too I assume- excellent chisels.
Hi Phillip
Nice mortice chisel. I am very fond of Bergs - my main paring chisels are all Bergs of the tanged variety. Terrific steel. The only thing I am not made about is the handle, which I replaced on all mine. Your one is different (much nicer) to the one's I know. Is it original?
Regards from Perth
Derek
Yes, original except for the finish.It was an orange tinted varnish- I put on some clear stuff some years ago.My father had that one so it is about 60years old.Philip Marcou
I have a Ward chisel not unlike that one. IMHO, its a good example of what I was talking about. The manufacturer seemed to confuse a long paring chisel and a tanged mortise chisel. The bolster (on mine and apparently yours) is machined and too small for the large handle required on a tanged mortiser. A firming chisel handle was applied to mine (and yours?). I don't prefer the solid machined chisels. I think lamination is a superior design and could be done again.Lastly its length is no advantage and some disadvantage. These are chisels, not crow bars.So what I see is a mortise chisel blade, in paring chisel length, with a firming chisel's handle. ITS FRANKEN CHISEL!I'm sure Philip can do good work with this tool, but I can't recommend it to beginners. Its not a traditional pattern and as such will deny users access to tradtional techniques (like pushing with the shoulder).Adam
PS I have a few picturess to add to this thread, but my shop flooded in the N'oreaster.
Hi Adam,First and foremost, I trust that things are relatively minor with the flood, although they're never easy times. My condolences.I used a Ward Chisel as you describe (the frankenchisel)when I knocked out a jointer plane in a hurry last week. The thing has an ability to hold an edge, has a blade about 10" long, a socket about 4" long and is about 1/2" at the top/socket and 3/8" at the cutting edge. It could still shave after knocking out a mortise in eucalypt. I found the length a plus in alignment and I was leaning on it as well to use as a paring chisel.
(I'm actually going to give it to my saw doctor and get him to take 1/2mm off the back to remove the minor pitting)Could this be a general duty framing chisel?In any case, it's a keeper. (but it would not be the easiest tool to learn on.)CHeers,eddieEdited 4/17/2007 5:52 pm by eddiefromAustralia
Edited 4/17/2007 5:53 pm by eddiefromAustralia
Adam, what woods are you working with the most?I am trying to find out if this is influencing your opinions in any way- especially what you say about the mortice chisels.
To me that A Berg chisel seems logical in design and proportion- enough length for mortices 4 or more inches as in doors with ample width for strength- indeed they are not to be used as crow bars but well able to take all levering associated with mortising.And the best Swedish steel.I wish all my chisels were made of that steel.Philip Marcou
I am sure you are right on both counts. I work either soft woods, or soft hardwoods. Black cherry and Black walnut are the harder woods I see most often. I sometimes work with maple and it is always a struggle. I work red and white oak but dislike each immensly.Also, I've never had to make a 4" deep mortise. I have worked in 2-3" from either side. But I've never had the problem that my chisels were too short. In fact, outside of framing, I can't even think of an application for such a deep mortise.But absolutely I agree. The work I do and the woods I work are extremely limited. I do everything I can to avoid reinventing processes. I try to stay "in the box" with traditional joinery, tools, and materials so I can learn how things may have been done. I've ventured outside the box on several occassions and always encountered unexpected problems. I know some of my friends in Oz have and use woods that renders my techniques and tools utterly irrelevant. That said, your chisel was likely made with people like me in mind. I doubt it was conceived of for 4" deep mortises in Jarrah. I think, like so many other things, it was ill-conceived by a cost conscious factory manager who'd never cut a mortise in his life and felt the chief attributes of a mortise chisel were its stout blade and hard steel. I think there's more to a mortise chisel than that. Adam
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