Replies

1. 
   gulfstar | Mar 05, 2021 01:13pm | #1

   Yes, I do that sometimes, to help starting and stoping I first drill a hole at each end of the mortise.

1. 
   mmdurocher | Mar 05, 2021 02:58pm | #4

   Oh that’s a great tip. Thanks. I was wondering also if hogging it out on the drill press is better and then just using a pass on the router table to clean it up? But at minimum having the start and end holes drilled sounds very helpful.

2. 
   _mj_ | Mar 05, 2021 01:30pm | #2

   I have done that many times. If you use an upcut spiral or split mortising bit instead of a regular straight bit you can lower the stock into the bit and avoid the drilling. Keeping solid control of the material is HUGE. Any little wiggle off of the fence can ruin a workpiece.

3. 
   john_c2 | Mar 05, 2021 01:52pm | #3

   I've done it, but if it's a deep mortise it makes me a little squeamish. When I made all my mortise with a router, I built the jig Tage Frid details in his books. It's much better than a router table, I think.

4. 
   bilyo | Mar 05, 2021 04:37pm | #5

   That is my primary method. I start by "hogging" out most of the material on the drill press. Then, for instance, if I'm making a 3/8" wide mortise, I use a 1/4" router bit setting the fence so that the bit is cutting the edge of the mortise farthest away from the fence. This prevents trapping the piece between the bit and the fence with possible grabbing and damage to the work piece (or maybe you). Be sure you move the work piece so that the bit is NOT climb cutting. I always use registration marks on the fence and work piece to show start and stop points. I also always leave the ends of the mortises rounded and just round the tenons; much easier than trying to square them up. Also, I don't try to make the tenons exactly the same length as the mortise. It isn't necessary and having a little slop there makes assembly easier and allows for some adjustment.

5. 
   bluemo | Mar 05, 2021 05:32pm | #6

   For those with a plunge router, here is yet another method:
   https://www.finewoodworking.com/2013/02/07/mortising-with-a-router
   Easy setup, no jigs required except an edge guide.

6. 
   elmaduro | Mar 05, 2021 10:24pm | #7

   Lots of good advice here and router table mortising with a spiral bit is my go-to joinery preference. I assume you’ll be using rounded edge slip tenons and so be sure to get the process dialed in with lots of sacrificial scrap.

7. 
   geedubbee | Mar 05, 2021 11:51pm | #8

   This was my method prior to a jig for the hand held router. Very doable.

   
8. 
   rob_ss | Mar 06, 2021 01:10am | #9

   Classic Norm Abrams technique. It works well and is safe.

   That having been said, a mortice chisel does the job very quickly, and if you don't have many to do, the set up effort for the router just isn't worth it.

9. 
   stantheman | Mar 06, 2021 10:27am | #10

   As long as you can get the bit high enough in the table to cut to the depth you need. I've come up to that obstacle a few times. And I hog it out on the drill press first, to reduce the opportunity for the workpiece to go out of square.

10. 
    starkw1 | Mar 06, 2021 07:27pm | #11

    I made an apparatus with x y and z adjustments for doing mortises on a router table. See https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/416063

11. 
    [email protected] | Mar 08, 2021 06:07pm | #12

    Years ago FWW had a great article on making a tenon cutter on the table saw and a box to cut mortises with a router.I still use the fantastic tenon cutter but have a horizontal holder for my router for mortises.I think it was Frank Klous (sp?)who was the author.

12. 
    Deleted | Mar 10, 2021 12:16pm | #13

    “[Deleted]”

13. 
    dberk | Mar 10, 2021 12:17pm | #14

    Done it, many times. Just be careful not to remove too much waste at once. I always do in multiple passes. Using stop blocks makes it pretty brainless. Never liked the plunge router method - not happy with the wobbliness of trying to balance the router. Would have to build some jigs to keep it steady. I found I would rather take the piece to the tool (router table), than the tool (plunge router) to the piece.