OK new project that may require a new tool!
I’m thinking about buying a mortiser at some point in the next few months. One thing I’m trying to wrap my head around is… can you make non-perpendicular mortises with a bench-top mortiser?
I was thinking about mortises for something like the X side bracket on the attached pic (from Pottery Barn).
How would you do that? Do mortise machines have tables you can tilt? Are you better off with a drill press with a tilting table and a mortise attachment? Do you need to do some sort of jig?
I don’t have a drill press, so if that’s a better purchase for flexibility in a new shop – that’s good to know, too.
(boy am I glad there’s this beginners forum now – this is definitely more my speed!!)
Replies
There are various ways to accomplish the task. You can build a jig to place your stock at the correct angle relative to the hollow point chisel attachment, tilt the drill press table (assuming the table tilts) or you can use a mortising machine what has adjustable tilt head unit. The units with adjustable tilt heads are significantly more expensive than the standard bench top mortiser.
Mortise attachments for drill presses is not something I have any experience with but from what I have read they seem to have more detractors than supporters.
Another way is to build a jig that will hold your stock at the correct angle and use a router to cut the mortises. If you don't have a good router or a drill press, I would opt for the router to expand your skills as well as the range of woodworking projects. There are many good books on using the router that also contains plans and pictures for a large variety of jigs. The router is probably the most versatile machine for woodworking.
Of course there is the traditional mallet and chisel.
Doug
Edited 8/8/2006 10:28 am by DougF
If you are looking at attaching the shelves to the "X" bracing, an economical approach would only require a hand or electrical drill along with "dowell buttons" and hardwood dowells. Two holes drilled in the ends of each shelf should carry any load imposed on the "X" braces. Be sure to use brad point drill bits to maintain drilling location accuracy. Another method to consider would be buiscuit jointery but if you are new at this, try the dowell approach until you find out more about other methods of joinery. GOOD LUCK!!!
From your picture I can't see that angled mortises are needed anywhere. Getting a mortise made at an angle is probably simple compared to getting tenon cheeks aligned at a similar angle. The table you show looks like a good candidate for assembly by the floating tenon method which I suggest that you investigate. You might do well to read up on mortise & tenon joint practice, such as what has been written by Tage Frid.
Cadiddlehopper
kummell,
I'd mortise perpendicular, and cut just the shoulders of the tenons at the angle (you'd have to do that anyway). Then bob the tenons off so they are at 90* to the shoulders (precision not necessary here) on the "long" side. There will be a void in the mortise at the "sort" side of the tenon, which you can ignore- it won't hurt anything. An advantage to this is that assembly will be much easier, it will go together as if all is square.
Regards,
Ray Pine
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