I am building a cradle for my expecting daughter and would like anybody’s idea on how to easily make over 50 mortises for the side rungs on the cradle. The cradle will be made of hard maple and will have 12 rungs on each side and 6 rungs each on the front and back.
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Replies
I have just the tip: Buy a Shop Fox mortiser, break it in with your cradle project, then sell it to me for 50% retail + shipping.
[sorry, couldn't resist -- it's a slow day here at the store]
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Speaking of the Shop Fox mortiser, I can't seem to find it on the Grizzly Web site any more. Does anyone know if this item is still available for sale?
I'm definitely interested in getting this mortiser, so if someone knows whether it's still available -- and if you have any more opinions about it -- I'd love to know!
Thanks.....
I purchased the Shop Fox mortiser at http://www.northwestpowertools.com/mortiser/w1671.htm.
I also ordered the set of chisels for a small fee (I can't recall, but I think it was about $25).
Also, Shop Fox is great to deal with. I had a few questions, plus a chisel that had bent points, and I contacted them via email and got quick responses. They sent me a new chisel with no argument.
Michael
Don't know why it's not in their catalog, but I am sure it's not because it's no longer made. This mortiser has been very popular! Northwest Power Tools, as mentioned above, is one source and one of the bigger outfits it would appear.
How 'bout giving Grizzly a call on their Toll Free line and asking about it? Let us know what you find out!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Knowing what tools you have at your disposal would be helpful. A dedicated mortising machine is probably the ideal. That's what it does, and well made models do it cleanly. The cheap stuff you get, i.e. the Delta conversion for a drill press, not so much. I rough out mortises on a router table sometimes, depending on size. I imagine your size is pretty small, though, so doing things that way would be time consuming. You could lay them out and make all the marks visible, and rough out 90% with an undersized forstner bit on a drill press, finish by hand with chisels. Lastly, if you have chisels and a marking knife, it can be very efficient, but again, not so much when you're doing 50 of them. 2 or 3, it takes longer to set up a machine than to mark them and chop them out.
" Shoot first and inquire afterwards, and if you make mistakes, I will protect you." Hermann Goering to the Prussian police, 1933.
Assuming the mortices are square on the ends, you could simply rout a groove down the length of the rails and glue in spacers between each slat or "rung". This method would be far faster than individual mortices. I would also recommend leaving the rails a little wide, cutting the groove deeper than the desired depth and cutting the excess off after gluing the spacers in. This will greatly simplify the glue up as you do't have to nearly as fussy with the fit at the rail edge. If you choos your wood carefully and get a good grain match the seam will be imperceptible.
Thanks Tom,
That sounds like a winner. I will rout the slots and install spacers. Thanks for the reply.
I have a similar, but easier way: I read this in a book, it's not my idea, but it helped me out on some bunk beds a few years ago.
Go ahead and dado your groove the exact width of your intended mortise, but extra deep. Then make a strip of matching wood that will fit into that groove, and cut a series of notches in it with router or dado blade(stacked dado on T-saw is preferred to eliminate chipout). Then glue the whole strip into the groove. This way your spacing is pre-set, and you don't have to worry about little spacers slipping around during glue-up.
I like Brian's (borrowed) idea. I also have a project coming up that will require lots of mortises and have been wondering how to do them. I might use that idea.
". . .and only the stump or fishy part of him remained."
Green Gables: A Contemplative Companion to Fujino Township
For historical interest, these 2 alternate methods were frequently used in the construction of Arts & Crafts furniture, particularly the so called mission style, with its many slatted surfaces, like the sides of many Morris chairs.
--
Lee in Cave Junction, Oregon
Gateway to the Oregon Caves
I should have given the credit earlier to Jeff Miller, in his book "Beds". I couldn't remember which book it was. He demonstrates the technique for his "Craftsman Style Bed". Not that he owns the technique, but that's where I picked up on it.
That is interesting that it was used long ago. Sometimes I wonder what techniques/knowledge have been lost, and how much of the "new" is actually re-invented...
I like that idea, although I have no immediate use of it. How about cutting the 2 strips (say 1/2" wide), and some waste, all together, then ripping them apart like a resaw. Spacing would be perfect, and with the extra, cut off the back and no tear out. Just a thought.
Bill,
I like Tom's idea. An alternative is to use pieces of dowel and drill round holes in slats and base...little glue...
Edited 3/15/2003 8:01:21 PM ET by BG
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