Mortising Attachment vs. Mortising Machine
Kurt_Battles
| Posted in Power Tools and Machinery on
Does a mortising attachment for a drill press perform as well as a mortising machine? I have a 1/2 hp Shop Fox drill press.
Replies
Cant say as I don't have a mortising machine but I am pleased with my old Delta mortising attachment for my drill press.
I break it out about 3 or 4 times a year and it meets my needs.
A little chisel work and I'm good to go.
I might recommend neither. Try this method by Christian Becksvoort. It's amazing simple, fast and accurate. It has the benefit of not putting stress on either your drill press or wallet.
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2008/09/01/cut-a-mortise-in-minutes
I just looked at the article. I like it. This is the approach I would take if I didn't have a mortiser.
“[Deleted]”
I didn't think so. I don't know a single person who has used a drill press mortifying attachment and a mortise machine that think the drill press attachment is remotely as good as a dedicated mortiser.
And there are stages. I used a Delta benchtop mortiser for a bunch of years, and it worked fine. But the quality was crap. The switch broke, then the knobs, one by one, then the cast iron itself where one of the knobs attached. I kicked the machine to the curb, literally.
I found a used Powermatic floor model mortise. It has the x-y table. It's pretty much perfect. Far better than the benchtop (even when not breaking), and the benchtop is far better than the drill press.
A lot of people skip all of the above and go straight to to a Domino. I have that too,but for many things still prefer the mortiser.
I had the benchtop delta and agree...no bueno. Swapped it for the Jet benchtop. If I had the space I would go floor standing. I had the drill press thingy years ago and learned that my drill press was not rigid enough, and whenever it was on there I found myself needing a drill press.
I have been using the mortizing attachment on a drill press for a long time and am satisfied with the result although it is less than ideal. I have a general 17 inches drill press and the main issue is rigidity, it’s also long to setup. To mitigate the lack of stiffness of the drill press in this application which is mainly due to the long overhang I wedged a piece of wood between the table and the base and it helps, but I’m sure a dedicated mortizer would be better, I just don’t use it enough to justify the space for it.
With all due respect to Mr. Becksvoort, when I made a cradle for my granddaughter, there were many M & T joints for the slats and base. The mortise machine was the only way to get it done in time. Chopping them by hand with drill press assist would take more time. I have never used a drill press mortise set up. A Domino would not work for slats.
I personally use whatever means I have to get the job done quickly with good end results. I have and use mortise chisels where appropriate. Use what is appropriate for your project.
Having cut mortises just about every way you can think of - by hand, by drill press and chisel, by router, etc - I can confirm that having a good, capable mortising machine is a game changer. I got a VERY good deal on a heavy duty craftex floor model with x/y table. It's not the cream of the crop or anything, but it made a huge difference in my shop life. Cutting mortises is a joy now. I got lucky with the steal of a deal I got, but knowing what I know now, I would have shelled out a lot more to have what I already have now.
Thex/y table is a huge deal. It is so, so much better than without it.
Right, I have the HF unit with their x-y vice. I modified it per a hack I saw online. You have to rotate a part 180 degrees and drill and tap a few holes to make it work. Now I am a hobby person so this works for me very well. If I was more into production I would have bought a better unit.
BTW, I have also used a router to cut mortises, the big old 3 1/2 Hitachi.
Thanks for rubbing it in.
Thanks all! A lot of good comments, thanks for taking the time to reply!
I have a Milescraft mortise guide I love. It's nothing special but it does a good job.
Mikaol
I have gone through chopping,drilling then chopping,drill press attachment,dedicated General foot activated drill/mortising machine and Frank Klous (sp?) fantastic two part tennon and mortise jig(s).I lent the mortise jig out and it never returned.But the tenon jig is still an important part of my shop. Look up the FWW article ,make the jigs,and experience pure joy
a drill press is not a mortiser. forgetting the hassle of attaching the thing on and off, a drill press is way under powered for anything but the softest of soft woods. also, a mortiser is geared to run at the correct speed and there's nothing that needs changing. depending on the drill press you have, changing those belts can be quite a chore.
but, to be completely honest, i am in the process of selling my mortising machine. i've come to like making mortises with a router and have not used the mortiser in quite some time.
Although I yam an avid tool-consuming consumerist, there is a small list of tool types that have never appealed and which I've never bought. The mortiser and the chopsaw are two-such.
A sliding carriage table saw obviates the need for a chopsaw, if one makes furniture, rather than larger scale items as constructed by carpenters. A really huge plank needing a sectioning is, anyway, easier to deal with using a handsaw for cross-cutting.
As you intimate, there are many modern modes for making mortises that seem superior to using a mortise machine, in that they're portable, fast and easier to set up & keep that way. The router and Festool Domino are perhaps better choices, as they're also much more versatile than a mortise machine (especially the router).
Not to say that chop saws and mortise machines should all be scrapped. after all, there are many modes of working wood and we all form our preferences, habits and particular skills.
But there are objective parameters against which different machine-designs for similar purposes can be measured and weighed in terms of cost, precision, versatility, portability, ease of set-up and so forth.
Or is that a rationalization after the fact of buying "the machine I have and use"? :-)
Lataxe
Alternative view point:
Sliding carriage table saw vs chop saw: I just put up some crown molding in my house. It may be possible to do this on a table saw but a chop saw is portable and much closer to the work site than the shop.
The cradle had 10 slats per side, 20 holes per side, 40 total. If you like chopping mortises by hand, this is a project you would really enjoy.
The slats were 1 1/2" wide (I think). Domino would not work. Also I think the HF mortise machine was $99 (I also think.) but don't know if they sell it any more. A Domino is around $1000 and is a nice tool but not worth the cost/benefit for me.
As mentioned above I have used a router for cutting mortises and it works well, but using the mortise machine, which is available is much faster.
Breaking down long boards is usually done outside with a circular saw or inside with a hand saw, less dust inside with a hand saw.
BTW I needed about 3' of crown molding, bought 6'. Wall was not level, beam I was wrapping not square, back trim pieces had different dimensions. Needed a step ladder to reach the ceiling. Had to cope two sides to fit existing molding, kind of. Two heads were needed to see how one coped piece was fitting while looking around to the corner of the intersecting side to mark dimension for trimming. Three hands needed to hold, mark length, set adjacent piece, or use nail gun. I finished up with a 6" piece available for use and lots of sawdust.
I had the Delta drill press attachment for years and absolutely hated setting it up. Then I picked up a Jet benchtop for $100 with 2 sets of bits. Great improvement.
Now let me add that I have also used the drill and clean up method many times. I like it and use it for my higher end work. But occasionally, I also go the full chisel method just for old times sake.
They all work; it just depends on which is best for you. But, back to the basic question of DP attachment vs. benchtop mortiser, I'll take the latter every time.
My mortising machine is a brace/bit/chisel combination. Then use a small combination square to check square of mortise walls. Works perfectly every time. That and you actually get to work wood instead of getting a machine do it for you.
I withdraw my comment if you are actually building furniture and cabinetry to feed your family. Machinery makes a lot more sense.
"The cradle had 10 slats per side, 20 holes per side, 40 total. If you like chopping mortises by hand, this is a project you would really enjoy." Plus the uprights.
I have used an attachment on a bench top drill press,chopped by hand,drilled then cleaned up,Frank klouses fantastic jig,a dedicated foot activated General morticer,and best deal ever,the attachment to the combination joiner planer.The attachment was sold separately years ago,a friend welded up a stand,added a right angle steel piece that the router is screwed to,bought the best long router bits and never looked back.Am about to use floating tenons on six end tables requiring 72 mortices
They are not the same creature at all.
I have a Grizzly mortising machine
https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-heavy-duty-mortiser-with-stand/g0448
On a dedicated mortising machine, all the components are designed for the task. An X-Y table, a HD clamp, the cast frame, etc are all designed for repeatedly driving a chisel through the wood, where a drill press is not.
If you're doing a single project, a DP attachment will get you by but if you need/want to cut mortises on a regular basis, you really should look into a dedicated machine. I personally don't care for any of the bench top models available today but that's just my opinion.
It all depends on your type of work but for me, it was worth it in the time savings alone.
The Griz is about $2K. I got the HF unit for $99 and their x-y vice. I modified the vice to align the wood and index for length. Got the cone sharpeners to keep the chisels sharp. They do not sell it anymore.
The Griz is much better I'm sure but as hobbyist the HF works well for me. See ash/cherry cradle above. Way faster than hand forming, easier than router. I've had no problems in cherry, maple, red and white oak, and locust. Too bad that they quit selling them.
ysu65, how did you get the mortiser to accommodate the x-y vise? I would have needed 3 risers to get the height needed to clear the vise.
Absolutely not the same. I've owned the Delta and it's nice enough but has many limitations. I graduated to a Powermatic mortising machine, much improved. Now I'm mostly using a Festool Domino, though, and trying to decide if I need the Powermatic mortiser at all.
If Your M&T joints are only for strength or carcass building and not to be seen, a Domino may be the way to go for some. The Grizzly I have (which cost much less when I bought it) can produce virtually any sized square or rectangular hole, where as a Domino is limited in it's size for a "single" joint. I find it can also useful when making square shoulders on other joints like Bridal joints and others. A traditional or square cornered M&T joint also has many aesthetic possibilities.
It all boils down to what you want to use them for.
I have cut mortises (a) 100% with chisel; (b) drill / chisel; (c) drill press mortiser; (d) Shop Fox mortiser; (e) router.
Got tired of setting up the DP mortiser, no issue with the drill press as it is an old Delta industrial model with plenty of power, but I truly hated setting it up.
The SF mortiser works fine, although except the vise sometimes requires shimming the work. No problem with the quality of the work at all.
Currently, I use the drill/chisel for most work when I have plenty of time. There is just something about laying out and chopping that appeals to me.
Bottom line; they all work, just choose what works best for you and what you enjoy.
Last but not least.Find someone who purchased a European Combo machine and it probably came with a mortising attachment they dont use.Buy that,attach a router or a proper motor,and you have a 3 axel horizontal mortiser and with a heavy carbide bit it will also cut the tenons .
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