Replies

1. 
   JohnG | Sep 08, 2005 07:09pm | #1

   I bought a Mortiser for my Ridgid DP but never used it, I ended up buying a dedicated moritiser.  It is brand new and never used.  The cost was $40 I will sell it for $20 if you will pay shipping.  I just have no use for it. 

   Other options for mortises is a plunge router or a dedicated mortiser.  If you decide you want my mortiser, just let me know. 

   John

   [email protected]

1. 
   mvac | Sep 08, 2005 08:30pm | #2

   <!----><!---->John<!---->,<!----><!----><!---->

   Thanks for your offer to sell me your mortising attachment. First, let’s see if it makes financial sense – I live in <!----><!----><!---->Vienna<!---->, <!---->VA<!----><!---->. Where are you?<!----><!---->

   <!----><!---->

   Second, what made you decide to not even bother w/ the mortising attachment? Did it just look like a poor choice, or likely to result in sub par mortises? I currently rout my mortises and square the ends up w/ a chisel; I like the idea of not having to go through that, especially when I have a lot of mortises to do.<!----> <!---->

   I’m also thinking about loose tenons, which would allow me to rout w/o squaring, and not need to sneak up on a good fit with the tenons.<!----> <!---->

   Let me know what you think.

   Best regards,Mitch

   "I'm always humbled by how much I DON'T know..."

2. 
   DCarr10760 | Sep 08, 2005 09:06pm | #3

   Hi Mvac,

   I bought a JET drillpress and as a promotional gimmee item, it came with a mortising attachment.

   After a long time sharpening the chisel and devising my own workpiece clamp (the one that came with it did not accomodate 4-inch wide stiles) it worked pretty well.

   That said, if I had only four mortises to make for a simple cabinet face-frame, I'd still chop them with a chisel.  If I was making all of the cabinets for a kitchen I'd use the attachment.  If I were going to do it regularly, I'd invest in a dedicated machine.

   Best Regards,

   DavidC

1. 
   mvac | Sep 09, 2005 03:55am | #4

   Thanks, David. Sounds like the attachment's a good compromise until I can afford a dedicated mortiser.

   Best regards,Mitch

   "I'm always humbled by how much I DON'T know..."

3. 
   belizewoodworker | Sep 09, 2005 04:01am | #5

   I have used a Jet benchtop mortising machine and made 25 school chairs with it from cabbage bark, a hard wood. It performed well, just have to give it time to cool down occasionally. I used one in a school where we regularly made bathces of 80 chairs. as long as you fix it well to the bench and make a good fence for longer items it works well and not too expensive.
   Hope this is useful

4. 
   vertis | Sep 09, 2005 05:35am | #6

   I use a forsner bit to hog out my mortice and then clean the edges with either a chisel or use a router,I dont bother with square mortice top and bottoms I just round the tenons top and bottoms with a coarse file and it fits,why bother going through perfect square edges at those ends because your not going to see it after assembly unless tou want through mortice......good luck pete.

1. 
   mvac | Sep 09, 2005 01:57pm | #7

   Pete,

   Yeah, that's kind of the attraction of loose tenons to me. No squaring stuff up, no need to sneak up on a fit, etc., etc. I guess I haven't done it yet because...I haven't done it yet! I'll have to do an experiment or two to get comfy with the process.

   Thanks,Mitch

   "I'm always humbled by how much I DON'T know..."

5. 
   JeffHeath | Sep 09, 2005 05:11pm | #8

   mvac

   I'd scrap the idea of the drill press attachment.  They're a lot of set up time, and I really don't think the quality of the mortise is good.  You'd be better off making a mortising jig with a router, like the one in Jeff Miller's  chairmaking book.  I went that route, and the mortises are much cleaner, and are faster to make, and more consistent in size for large runs.  Of course, if you're in a production run, a multirouter can't be beat.

   I haven't used my mortising attachment in 5 or 6 years.

   Jeff

6. 
   Elcoholic | Sep 10, 2005 03:42am | #9

   I have the promo that came with my Jet DP.  It's OK for a few mortises in relatively soft hardwood, but nothing more.  Fortunately I have access to a friend's benchtop Delta HCM for doing big jobs.  As others have pointed out, the DP conversion hold down is the big drawback.  Also a dedicated HCM has more mechanical advantage for easier plunging.  The hold downs on benchtop HCM's still leave room for improvement.  That's why I'll get the Powermatic floor model when and if the right job comes along.  BTW if you get the DP conversion keep in mind that the shanks on the augers will be too long for a dedicated HCM so you'll have to shorten them.

   John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   The more things change ...

   We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form up into teams, we would be reorganized.  I was to learn later in life that we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, inefficiency, and demoralization.

   Petronious Arbiter, 210 BC

7. 
   THintz | Sep 10, 2005 02:23pm | #10

   I must preface this by admitting that there are folks who use these mortising attachments and actually end up with mortises. However, if my email is even remotely representative, those folks are distinct minority. My personal experience (with 3 versions no less) is something I strive to forget.

   I have a review/rant about these insidious little attachments at the link below but I encourage you to consider my state of mind on this issue and to make up your own mind.

    

   http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/dpmortattachrvu.html

8. 
   bladeburner | Sep 10, 2005 04:12pm | #11

   loose tenons are the way. I put a simple horizontal router setup on the back of one of my tables, insert spiral bit, setup stop blocks and like the chef says..."BAM!" you're done

   Joe

9. 
   Jfrostjr | Sep 10, 2005 04:59pm | #12

   Plunge router is the way to go. Much cleaner mortise and very little set-up time.

   Loose tenons are the best. Trim a "stick" to the proper thickness, then run it past a roundover bit and chop to length. Just don't forget to glue BOTH ends when assembling.

   Jerry