Replies

1. 
   wbwood | May 23, 2002 06:33am | #1

   Paul,

   No question it will work. Some things come to mind. How many doors are you making? I'm assuming these are stile and rail doors (frame and panel). If these are full sized doors, or possibly larger than usual, you will need to mortise pretty deep, say 2" or so. Assuming 1 3/4" thick doors for exterior, you probably will want at least a 1/2" or even better, a 3/4" thick tenon. That's a lotta' routing and the chips are going to tend to plug up the mortise while you work so there'll be many stops to clear the chips (and the air! no doubt) but it will work!

   Some other thoughts. If you can, try to register your mortise jig always from one face of the door parts. This will help keep everything flush and you won't have to be so perfect regarding DEAD CENTER on your routing--just get as close as you can and let 'er rip.

   Clamping will be one of the biggest chores. As you probably know or at least can guess, you will need plenty of real strong clamps. If you don't have a door clamp, I recommend Jorgensen # 72's. I haven't found anything else that can really do the job. They are spendy, but they last forever.

   Also, use a glue that gives some open time. Yellow glue(pva) works real well and has good strength, but it can get pretty hairy as the glue starts to set up too fast and the door is hard to close anyway.. I would recommend urea resin (a two part mix)for more time in assembly. Weldwood is a good one. Definitely do a dry run or two before you get glue on everything. Good luck. wb

   
   

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   Edited 5/22/2002 11:38:50 PM ET by WBWOOD1

2. 
   theRev | May 23, 2002 04:14pm | #2

   I just finished two doors for my new gallery. I did them with slip tenons. Since I built them out of Port Orford cedar, I figured the doors being a bit lighter would get by with a slip tenon.

   I agree with the procedure above. But if you can, get some help during glue up. It gets hairy going it alone to try and get glue on all the parts, get them in and clamped, lined up, square, wiped up etc. And definitely dry runs.

   As an aside, I would suggest also that you route the hinges on the door and jamb while they are both unassembled. It's a lot easier that way.

   Scott

3. 
   Hempstalk | May 23, 2002 09:02pm | #3

   It works pretty good.  I used a plunge router with a 2 1/2" upcut spiral bit.  I made a templet that straddled the door stiles and ends of the rails.  It had two slots cut in it to route 2 half in. mortises (twin tennons). Use a guide collar to follow your templet.  All you need is one clamp to hold you templet in place.  The earlier comment about having to clear the chips is right.  Using a spiral bit will help but the the guide collar limits the ejection of the chips from the mortise.  An occasional shot of compressed air does the job.  I made a total of 22 full size 1 3/4" thick solid Fir entry doors this way.  I know what your thinking. Get a hollow chisel mortiser.  I built these years ago while working for a small shop that didn't have one.  Where there a will theres a way.

1. 
   PaulParadis | May 24, 2002 01:05am | #4

   Thanks everyone for taking the time to answer my question, I will put them to use.