Replies

1. 
   mudman | Oct 12, 2006 07:15am | #1

   There are basicly two types of motors. Inducton (larger table saws, drill press, jointer, larger planers) and universal (router, skill saw, portable planer or bench saw).

   Universal motors cost less, weigh a lot less, can spin a whole lot faster (30,000 RPM is easy) and pack a lot of power in a small package. But they dont have a lot of torque and they are rated by their peak performance. For example my 20 pound shop vac has a 6 horse motor but my 500 pound Unisaw has a 3 horse motor.

   Induction motors last longer have a lower RPM torqy power, but weigh a ton. So all the motors you are talking about are Induction.

   The band saw could benifit from a 1.5 horse motor. It would help cut the heavier resawing faster and better. The problem is that band saws have slower than normal motors that are hard to find. Look on Ebay. A good blade and guide system are far more importaint. If you have the best RESAW blade you can get and it is tuned correctly and you still can't cut well then look at the motor upgrade.

   The jointer is fine. Poor cutting on a joiner should have nothing to do with the motor.

    

   Pardon my spelling,

   Mike

   Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.

1. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Oct 13, 2006 05:51am | #5

   Mike, thanks for the info, the magic word that I forgot was "universal" - just a minor case of C.R.S.

   The bs motor is 1725 rpm and I will check the rotation and frame . I finally found a real motor shop in East TN on my last trip and picked up a 1/2 hp Emerson for my 1920 drill press. I will look for a 1 1/2 hp Emerson, Dayton or Baldor for the bs and back off to 1hp if the $$$ get too crazy. Almost all my bs blades are from Suffolk( no problem there) and the bearings and cool blocks work ok so far. The fence is an aluminimum after market that works good.

   The jointers work ok now, I just thought that if I take them apart to move, it would be a good time to upgrade if it would be for some gain in performance. Obviously not. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" is a good motto, eh.   All the best, Pat

2. 
   Knotscott | Oct 12, 2006 01:46pm | #2

   IF you replace, you'd definitely want to replace with another induction motor in each case, preferably with the same frame, RPM, rotation, and duty rating.  It'd be difficult to replace with a universal motor, would be much louder, and likely less reliable in the long haul.

   I rarely hear of anyone mentioning that 1hp is not sufficient on a 6" jointer.  I'm all for a bigger jointer, but would think the motor size wouldn't be a major motivator.

   The BS motor upgrade has more merit IMHO, if the saw is otherwise functioning well...I know alot of people struggle to get this machine up to snuff, but if it's running well, I'd think an upgrade to 1hp or even tad higher would be noticeable and worth while. 

   If the specs match up, ever consider swapping the motors on the two machines?  There are a couple of 6" jointers currently on the market that seem fine with a 3/4hp motor, and years ago most of them were 3/4hp or less.  Maybe not my "best" idea, but an idea nonetheless! LOL...

    

    

   
   

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   Edited 10/12/2006 6:48 am ET by Knotscott

1. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Oct 13, 2006 06:02am | #6

   Scott, thanks for the good poop. As I told Mike I will upgrade the bs and leave the jointers alone. I have used machines for a long time and don't press on them too hard. A bigger bite joining cedar or pine gets cut down to 10% on the hard maple types-I have the time to do 4+ extra passes if required to avoid loading up by trying to hog it off. Pat

3. 
   DJK | Oct 12, 2006 04:40pm | #3

   Look around on trash nite and find a tredmill with a 2hp+ DC motor and vari. speed control. Use the motor and control on a band saw or drill press.

   DJK

1. 
   Mike&L | Oct 12, 2006 08:59pm | #4

   Now there's a great idea!  That should work well on a drill-press as well.

   I had been looking for a practical (read "findable" and "affordable" way to add variable sped to a couple of things and this just may be the ticket. 

   The only down-side that I can think of off hand is that the only treadmill motor that I'm familiar with runs pretty darn slowly even at top speed - definitely correct for the tread mill, but may take a pretty big pulley to get the rpm's at the tool shaft needed.

   Mike D 

2. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Oct 13, 2006 06:55am | #7

   DJK & Mike, It's a great idea and would be great on the dp or an old 18" powermatic scroll saw that I still need to find a small motor for but I would move to your area to search as not too many folks in the foot hills of the Clinch Mt's in Tn.are throwing out   tredmills. Old stills perhaps? Thanks, Pat

1. 
   QCInspector | Oct 13, 2006 10:27pm | #8

   The Makita 16" bandsaw that I bought a long time ago came with a universal motor with a gear box to drop the speed. It was a screamer that fortunately didn't last to long before quiting. I replaced it with a 1 horse 1725 rpm induction motor. It seemed to deliver the same power to the blade without making the hair on my legs frizz. I would never think about replacing an induction motor with a univerasl.

1. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Oct 14, 2006 02:51am | #9

   Thanks QC, I think that I have the plan correct now. Pat