Replies

1. 
   DougU | Mar 03, 2006 07:55am | #1

   B

   Try asking this question over in "Tools" you might get more response.

   I think there was a discussion on this topic a while back. Go to "tools" and do a search.

   I see your new so welcome, the tools section is at the top and way over to the left, on my computer its sort-of-a light purple color.

   Doug

2. 
   jack | Mar 05, 2006 09:45am | #2

   I bought the Shop Fox about a year ago.  Ordered it in December to beat the Jan1 price increase only to discover it was out of stock for several months.  When I pursued the issue as to why it wasn't available I was advised that the early machines had problems with the gears so they were holding up shipping until they could obtain new gears.  I communicated with Papagrizzly via pm's through another forum and he advised waiting for the Shop Fox, which I did.  It was worth the wait. 

   The machine produces mouldings of excellent quality.  It is fairly simple to set up and knife changes are a breeze.  Adjustments for stock width are a little more involved but not difficult.

   Chip collection is just so-so.  It puts almost as many chips on the floor as in the cyclone.  That's a minor point, though.  It's actually easier to sweep them up than it is to empty the cyclone drum.

   The only negative comment I have is the cost of knives.  Grizzly offers a few knives at reasonable cost but the selection is very limited.  Expect to spend at least $100 for a set of small, simple knives.  Double or triple that for larger knives or complex shapes.  You have to make a lot of molding to justify the cost.  I am a hobbyist so I can't write off their cost as a business expense.    I might think differently, though, if I had a business so I could write it off.

   Hope this helps,

   Jack

    

    

    

    

    

   
   

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   Edited 3/5/2006 1:50 am ET by Jack

3. 
   JeffHeath | Mar 05, 2006 09:06pm | #3

   I have the W & H moulder, and it is the original that all others are trying to copy for less money.  Don't be fooled.   If you're an occassional maker of mouldings, than I'm not sure it would matter.  However, the W & H is capable of making mouldings all day long, and of very high quality.  With sharp knives, you can go from moulder to finish.  I can't comment on the shop fox, as I've not seen it, but I've seen mouldings out of the woodmaster and I was not impressed.  Having to sand the waves out of a moulding is a tedious task indeed.

   As far as knives go, there are many online sources for knives in the 100 to 150 range per set.  I've got a local tooling shop that charged me about 150 for 6 inch knives, and it goes down from there.  That was 2 years ago, so maybe a little more.  I recently (3 weeks ago) paid 130 for a very involved 3" cabinet door moulding for mitered doors with a double bead, arch, and triple ogee.  16 cabinet doors turned out perfect with 2 passes.

   Jeff

1. 
   Marion | Mar 05, 2006 10:11pm | #4

   Jeff-
   When you run the moulding in two passes, do you ever have the cut shift?
   And I guess you take most of it off the first pass with just light touch up?
   I've only done one pass. But so far moulding have been great.(I also have W&H)
   Thanks

1. 
   JeffHeath | Mar 06, 2006 12:18am | #5

   Marion,

   Being a creature of habit, I've always just taken the last 1/16 in a final pass.  On the larger crown mouldings, I'll sometimes take 3 or even 4 passes.  Not because it's necessary, but because I just don't want to risk a tearout in the middle of some beautiful piece of curly cherry or maple.

   When I run paint grade mouldings in poplar, I do them in just one pass.  Sharp knives are the key, and I hone mine with diamond sticks before I begin.

   I keep my runners pretty tight to the sides of the stock, and haven't had any problems with wandering with two passes.

   Jeff

   Edited 3/5/2006 4:19 pm ET by JeffHeath