Mule Chest Joinery

mdrobb | Posted in Ask the Experts Archive on June 1, 2006 07:59am

Darrell,

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I am designing a mission style mule chest of drawers (two chests, side by side, with a center divider in common, approximate dimensions 65”Wx18”Dx46H). I am planning to make a case (3/4” solid quarter sawn white oak panels), dovetailed at the top corners and a center divider (either solid or framed?) attached to the top with a sliding dovetail, and continuing to floor. Each horizontal and vertical drawer divider will also be attached with a sliding dovetail. The base of the case will consist of the bottom 3” of the sides and two front and back pieces attached with a through wedged tenon to each side. Each piece will have a curve removed from its center creating a foot at each corner and the center of the front and back of the case.

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My concern is the joinery of these front and rear pieces to the center divider and the overall strength at the center of the cabinet.

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I would appreciate any insight you might have.

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Thank you,

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Michael

Replies

furnituremaker | Jun 02, 2006 08:01am | #1
Hi Michael,

I am not able to visualize your design at the base - would it be possible for you to post a drawing ?

thanks,

Darrell

mdrobb | Jun 05, 2006 02:51am | #2
Darrell,

The base of the chest is similar to the one in this link.



http://www.restorationhardware.com/rh/catalog/product/product_detail.jsp?productId=prod1045015&navCount=2



My question is concerning the joinery of the bottom front pieces to the center divider.



As I mentioned before, the sides will be solid and the bottom front pieces will attach to the sides with through tenons.



Please let me know if you still need additional information.



I appreciate your help,



Michael

furnituremaker | Jun 05, 2006 03:11pm | #3
Hi Michael,

Thank You. I believe I have a better understanding of your question now. 

My concern with the design would be the center divider. The ¾” thickness may not be enough thickness to support sliding dovetails coming in from both sides. If possible I would increase the divider thickness to 1” and even 1 1/8” if possible , while at the same time making the sliding dovetail as shallow as possible – maybe 5/16” or so. 

I would also keep in mind the fact that the solid components will move much more than the framed components. (i.e.: a framed divider would not move at the same rate as the solid top and bottom it is attached to)

As for the skirts (curved rail at bottom of case): they are not contributing greatly to the cabinet’s strength. The strength should be coming from joining the sides- top - bottom - and the back. If you increase the thickness of the divider you should have enough material for adequate shallow mortises coming from both sides. If the divider is ¾” thick I would recommend offsetting the joinery to the skirt.

 

Darrell