Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Oct 08, 2003 06:51pm | #1

    Use wider stock;make it at least 3 or 4 in. and after routing both edges,rip to width on the tablesaw and cut to length.Make only two montin edges at a time,not four.

    Good luck

2. 
   ChasStanford | Oct 08, 2003 07:25pm | #2

   I think that the router bit set you've bought will cut a REAL muntin bar -  one with a profiled edge, a coped end, and a rebate for the glass.

   Can you clarify?

1. 
   Oriole | Oct 09, 2003 04:38am | #4

   No,

   They have two different sets. This one doesn't take glass. The muntin is flat on the back, with a fancy profile on both edges. The other cutter cuts the dado. I am concerned about how to cut a piece that is only 5/8 inch wide by 3/4 inch deep. Maybe I am not looking at the whole picture. I haven't bought the set yet, so I don't know if I could cut a full width, then cut them apart with a table saw.

   Oriole

1. 
   NickGianpaulo | Oct 09, 2003 12:14pm | #5

   Shaping narrow muntin stock with a router can be done with a router table or a shaper. The key is zero clearence around the cutter. The table should support the workpiece so it doesn't submarine during the cut. The fence should be continous, and support the piece above the cutter.

   To hold the pieces against the fence, put a feather board on the table. Use a plywood push stick that is thinner than the stock is wide.

   Finally, don't put your fingers within 5" of the running cutter.

2. 
   BG | Oct 09, 2003 02:47pm | #6

   O,

   If they are like my windows where you can pull off the wood to clean the glass..then, as Sashguy pointed out, that really needs to be done on a router table.  Cutting them is just a matter of standing a 5/8" board on edge and run it both sides through the router...and then cut 3/4" off on the TS.  Rejoint the edge of the board and repeat.  The problem is the 'sticks' will be about 30" or longer and trying to support a piece of stock so that you can cut with a handheld router ...that is tricky.

   Personnally, I don't know how fancy you want these to be...but on my mutions I could use a small roundover bit to achieve the profile...  good luck  

1. 
   Oriole | Oct 09, 2003 05:41pm | #8

   BG,

   Thanks so much.  I do have a router table and fence, so I should be able to add another taller fence to the one I have for support. This is just the idea I was looking for. Seems safe, and easy.

   I really appreciate all who, replied. Thanks everyone.

   Oriole

3. 
   Crunk | Oct 09, 2003 03:57pm | #7

   I am practically positive that the procedure you should follow would be to run the profile on wider boards and rip them off on the T/S.  I wouldn't know for sure unless I saw the bit set that you bought.

   FWIW, this is the exact procedure when using hand tools - the profiles are run (a sash cutter for a Stanley 45/55 does the rebate at the same time) and then the bars are ripped from the wider stock.  One keeps cutting bars until the board will not yield another piece.  Straight-grained lumber is used since anything else will promptly develop bow and crook.

   I used to use power tools and I can't recall a time that I ever attempted to run a molding profile (for any purpose) on narrow stock.  I always ran the profile on wide stuff and then ripped on the T/S.  I can't imagine doing it any other way.

1. 
   Oriole | Oct 09, 2003 05:44pm | #9

   BossCrunk,

   That was what I am concerned about, but I think BG made it clear for me. What would you think about using MDF instead of wood? Any reason not to. I could get some fine grain white oak, I think I have a good board in my stach, but hate ripping it up for muntins.

   O

1. 
   Crunk | Oct 09, 2003 09:39pm | #10

   I guess MDF would work.  I've never made molding with it however.  It's certainly cheap enough to try.

2. 
   BG | Oct 10, 2003 12:55am | #11

   Don't you want to use the same wood as the window frame?  will they be painted or stained?

3. 
   Oriole | Oct 10, 2003 06:55pm | #12

   Hi BG,

   The frames are painted white, as are the exsisting muntins. I just thought it might be more stable using MDF. Someone mentioned that I would need tight grained wood to avoid twisting and bending after being cut.

   I am selling this house and just want to match up the bars as close as possible, if I were planning to stay I would be doing all new ones. Since these were broken when we bought the place, anything will be an improvement.

   I take it you don't think much of the MDF idea ;-)

   O

4. 
   BG | Oct 10, 2003 08:38pm | #13

   O,

   I'm a little concerned that MDF at that thickness will not have any strength to it..maybe the slightest tap will cause it to break....I'm just guessing.  I guess the paint may adda bit of strength...but will the initial moisture cause it to decompose?

   Either way its easy and cheap enough to try out and see what happens.  I think mine are straight grain fir...also inexpsnsive...just square up some decking material.. good luck

3. 
   mike4244 | Oct 08, 2003 09:15pm | #3

   After routing the first side you make a carrier ( mdf is good choice for carrier) and add a thin strip equal to the height of the rabbet. The muntin is toggle clamped to the carrier and against a straight edge, the added thin strip keeps it from rolling over.A scrap block is fastened at the trailing edge of the carrier to keep piece from sliding back and prevents splintering at the end of the run.The carrier rides on against the fence.

   mike