Replies

1. 
   WillGeorge | Mar 05, 2005 01:05am | #1

   POT METAL!  Well, you could get the parts and use as a mold and make it out of Bronze!

2. 
   SawdustSteve | Mar 05, 2005 04:12am | #2

   Hi Bill My Grizzly catalog (2003) does not list a 1538 bandsaw. What size is it?? I'll bet that the 'upper wheel hinge' or the 'upper wheel bracket' are the same as the equivelent part for a Powermatic or other 'made in asia' bandsaw. Almost all these saws come off one set of casting molds, it just depends on which level of quality goes to which 'manufacturer'. SawdustSteve

1. 
   upstateBill | Mar 05, 2005 06:44am | #4

   It's a 16" model. They brought a new model the next year. The part #G-1538023 did not cross reference with any other model the tech desk told me. It has a 111" blade so if any other saw from around 1990 had that size blade I wouldn't be surprised if they were from the same plant. The instruction manual is dated 1991 so I've had it longer than I thought. I don't know long they stock parts or when there gone thats it. I just looked in Woodworkers Supply and they list a 111" blade for a Reliant 16" and a Sears 24393 15". Looks like a trip to the Sears catalog center. 

3. 
   nikkiwood | Mar 05, 2005 06:37am | #3

   I always get zinged around here when I try to warn people off Grizzly.

   Sure, they have their satisfied customers, but over the years I have heard too many stories about problems such as yours.

   Is there any way the part could be spot welded?

1. 
   highfigh | Mar 05, 2005 05:33pm | #5

   There are probably just as many unhappy Delta, Powermatic, Jet and other customers, it's just a matter of talking to more people about their machines. 12 years ago was fairly early in the Grizzly life span, although my 12" planer is almost that old(still works great and I have run quite a bit of material through it). I know their bandsaws have come a long way in that time so it may be a problem with the casting dimensions or there may have been some impurities that caused the failure. You can't spot weld material like this. If you mean 'tack weld', that's different and that wouldn't be adequate, either. The weld would need to be along the entire break to be effective. Bill- is there a way for you to post a photo of the part? Otherwise, call around or go to some small welding/machine shops in your area. I'm sure someone can advise you on how to repair the part.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

1. 
   forestgirl | Mar 05, 2005 06:36pm | #7

   If I'm guessing right...[I guessed wrong, highfigh picked it up.  #38 is the correct part number].  The following diagram is from a different model.

   View Image

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

   Edited 3/5/2005 1:20 pm ET by forestgirl

1. 
   highfigh | Mar 05, 2005 06:51pm | #8

   I just went back and re-read the original post and it referred to the fact that one of the two pins had been driven in too far and being pot metal, it broke. That being the case, I think it would be #38. I guess it would be hard to repair, but a machine shop could make one pretty easily. Or, someone could get a piece of steel, have it cut to size and drill the holes needed, install some pins and do some fine tuning.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

1. 
   upstateBill | Mar 06, 2005 03:19am | #9

   As is usually the case I didn't make things clear. And yes forestgirl that's the part. I thought the pin was in to far but it was in the bottom of the housing. Both of the pins will fall in or out. They were loose. The part broke  where the bottom ear attaches to the top houseing under the pins and hole for the wheel shaft. I don't know if it was poor design or to much tension from me. I've always thought I was more loose than tight. I use to be like Baby Huey always brakeing things so I try to stay on the light side. A gentleman sent me a e-mail saying he could help which would be super. Since my first shop class in 1958 I love the smell of sawdust and having a 1885 house just small jobs around the house are a joy. Thanks for your help. Bill.

2. 
   brownbagg | Mar 06, 2005 05:55pm | #10

   mine broke too, I went to sears and bought one for the sear look alike and it fit mine perfect. Took three days in the mail.

4. 
   forestgirl | Mar 05, 2005 06:28pm | #6

   Bill, I have a "20/20 hindsight" question:  Do you keep the tension released when you're not using the saw (which sounds like 364.9 out of 365 days of the year)?  It'd be a good habit to get into.  Better for the bearings, the tires,  and looking at where that part is, it might be better for that too.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

5. 
   forestgirl | Mar 06, 2005 08:12pm | #11

   Bill, did you see that last post??
   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=22303.11

   Looks like Sears is the ticket!

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   upstateBill | Mar 07, 2005 02:53am | #12

   Yes, thank you. Going to the catalog store in the morning to see how I can do.