Replies

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Oct 22, 2003 02:42am | #1

   Steve

      I think you won't regret getting a jointer. If you buy s2s, the jointer will pay for itself.

   Good Luck...

   sarge..jt

2. 
   VeniciaL | Oct 22, 2003 02:56am | #2

   Steve,

   A jointer is one of the essential power tools of woodworking. It's impossible to do any work if you can't true up boards. Sidestepping any inevitable arguments in favor of hand planing (yes, yes it's a necessary skill to acquire in one's growth as a woodworker) the jointer is a fundamental need.

   If all you can afford is a 6 inch, get that, but if you can swing it, opt for an 8 inch. An 8 inch is literally twice as much machine.

   That said, I have been using a 6 inch Grizzly in recent months. I wasn't the one who bought it and I probably never would have considered such a low-priced jointer. Well, I am amazed at the quality and robustness of this $300 piece of equipment. I'll be buying an 8 inch after the holidays and I very well might get an 8 inch Grizzly.

   VL

   
   

   ---

   Edited 10/21/2003 8:00:02 PM ET by Venicia L

3. 
   fdampier5 | Oct 22, 2003 03:02am | #3

   I bought a Grizzly 8 inch jointer and I can't begin to tell you how happy I am with it.. to me the two most important pieces to buy are a jointer and a planner.. the cheap bench tops are fine for most and do a decent job (all the bigger more expensive ones really do is work with bigger boards.. )

     when you buy a jointer you can get your wood from much cheaper and better sources..

         I can't begin to tell you how wonderfull it is to take a rough piece of semi grey wood and run it thru the planner to find this rich awsome grain pattern that if you went to the store to buy you'd have to pay a premium for..

     I have some burled wood that I bought real cheap because the sawmill just saw it as waste.

      You can take free wood and make wonderful projects out of it.. pallets/ cartons and hundreds of other sources of wood will provide you with a source of free..

      sure if you want to simply lust for the best/ more expensive brands while you do this endless search for a deal on a used one that doesn't need a machinist to bring it back to life.  you can hold out for more expensive brands but Grizzley is very good, they are very cheap and they have great service..

4. 
   PlaneWood | Oct 22, 2003 04:33am | #4

   My 6" Jet is working fine for me.  The only thing I don't like about it is the blades.  The steel is just a little to soft; requiring frequent sharpenings.  However, I sharpen them myself using a little rolling truck that holds the blades at the proper angle.  I use the sandpaper method and the last grit is 600 wet/dry paper.  Got the Jet a couple of years ago when they brought out their anniversary model.  I rarely have the need of jointing stuff over 6" wide.  I do have a 1200 cfm DC and would advise that size as a minimum for it and/or a 12" planer.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

1. 
   drinct | Oct 22, 2003 04:37pm | #5

   Thanks all.

   Actually, I do have a thickness planer already and I am definitely settled that I need a jointer as well. I am really looking for size/brand recommendations.  I will check out the Grizzly. The thing about Griz for me is that there are no local dealers,  whereas I have 2 dealers for Jet/Powermatic and Delta.

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Oct 22, 2003 06:11pm | #6

   Steve

      If you already have a thickness planer, you need the jointer. If I could only have one of the two, the jointer would be the first choice. They are a team when combined, but the jointer is the quarter-back and gets the ball first. It hands-off to the planer who takes it to the "land of milk and honey". ha..ha..

      Sorry for the University of Ga. football terminology. :>) How bout dem Dawgs...

   sarge..jt

2. 
   forestgirl | Oct 22, 2003 07:18pm | #9

   Steve, the 8" Grizzly is such a good machine and excellent value.  If you think in the future you would use that extra 2" of capacity, an 8" is the way to go.  If you can't afford the price of the PM or Jet 8", go for the Grizzly!  Their customer service is excellent, and you'll find several people here that own the machine and think highly of it.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

3. 
   fdampier5 | Oct 23, 2003 03:59am | #16

   Grizzley is on your computer at grizzley.com  If you E-mail them tonight tommorrow it will be on it's way tommorrow.. parts are just as fast, overnight if you want it..

    the machines are butt simple and well made..

     My new shaper just showed up today and it's fun cleaning it up and putting it  together.  It will take me all of a couple of hours to set it up (and trust me I'm no machinist)  

      by cutting out the middle man grizzley is able to sell stuff at a low price and still provide you with service and back up..

5. 
   mike4244 | Oct 22, 2003 06:31pm | #7

   Steve, how about a good jack plane to start with. A hand plane will do the job with small cost, less noise and you will learn to plane with the grain. I am assuming you do not do production work and enjoy your new hobby. I still use handplanes even though I own a jointer and planer.If you decide to go this way , buy Leonard Lees book on sharpening tools.

   Mike

1. 
   drinct | Oct 22, 2003 06:47pm | #8

   I have a jack plane. Admittedly, not a great one. I do, however, have that sharpening book. I followed the directions and tuned up my block plane which has really made a big difference.

   I am hesitant about the big job of lapping the sole of the big 'ol jack plane, though. For the block plane I used glued-down sanding belts. The bigger plane is going to required a LOT more elbow grease and longer, kind of expensive belts.  I like the idea, though and I think I will try it. P.S. Lee's book suggested buying powdered abravise and sprinkling that on soft plastic - this did not work well for me and scratched the heck out of my block plane - I think the plastic I was using was too hard.

1. 
   BG | Oct 23, 2003 02:31am | #15

   Steve,

   I buy all my sandpaper on rolls at Woodworkers Warehouse for use on my 1/4 sheet sanders.  I also rip off a three foot piece and put it on the TS (now I use scrap granite) and lap my planes.  The Jack was not bad...the jointer plane was a bit more work...

2. 
   mike4244 | Oct 23, 2003 04:42am | #18

   Steve, if a planes sole is bellied in the center you should lap it. If it is shallow in the center lapping isn't neccessary unless it is a lot ( more than 1/32"). In my opinion too much is made of lapping the sole.I use wood planes that I made and know that the soles are not completely flat anymore.They work great as long as the iron is sharp.The only plane that I lapped was a stanley low angle block plane.This planes sole was high at the throat area and was worthless until I lapped it. If I recall it took at least four hours to get flat.If I knew better I would have returned it and checked out another plane at the store.

   mike

6. 
   BOBABEUI | Oct 22, 2003 07:45pm | #10

   Steve,

   I have a Powermatic 54a (6 inch jointer). If I had the chance to do all over again, I would buy a 8 inch jointer, over the 6. The reason why I say I would pick a 8 inch over the 6, is there is a much greater chance that whatever rough stock you get is going to fit the 8 inch machine vs. the 6. Having said that..

   There will always be some piece of rough lumber that will be too big for your jointer, I for one just can't bring myself to rip the stock small enough to fit the machine, so I have learned how to use a scrub plane and jointer plane to prepare one side of the stock for the surface planer.  Kind of satisfying once you get the knack of it, whole lot less noisy too.

   Good luck..

1. 
   drinct | Oct 22, 2003 08:19pm | #11

   Hmmm...

   That Griz 8" might be do-able.  Some extra moonlighting and a little sweet-talking of the wife and it could be in my basement before long.

   The 450lb thing worries me a little - I only weight 150, but I have neighbors.

   They make a model with hand-wheels and a model with levers for the same price...any suggestions there? I would think the handwheels offered better control.

   Steve

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Oct 22, 2003 08:36pm | #12

   Steve

      I have a 6" jointer. I also rip and joint if I go over 6", which happens pretty often. If I do replace down the road, I will go with the 8" Griz as FG noted. It has more "bang for the buck" than anything else in that price range, IMO.

      The wheels are a little slower, but allows you to get more precise adjustment. I prefer wheels as it only takes a few seconds extra and those few seconds relate to more precision.

   sarge..jt

1. 
   VeniciaL | Oct 22, 2003 10:24pm | #13

   I like the handwheels, too. But I haven't used the model with levers. The Grizzly is very satisfying to use. I agree with Forestgirl - their customer service is great. At least it was for me. I talked to a technician about the 8 inch machine. He was completely unhurried, honest and very helpful. He said that Grizzly bought their jointers from a particular maker in Taiwan (can't remember who) which was several cuts above other manufacturers (the ones that made other Grizzly power tools) and that he considered the jointers among the best of their product lines. They sure are an awful lot of machine for the money.

   VL

1. 
   RANGERP75R | Oct 23, 2003 07:29am | #20

   Venicia

      The Griz 8" is the best buy on the market as far as getting your moneys worth. It's got some stuff that much more expensive jointers have. If I replace that's where I'm going unless someone come's along with something even better for the money. And I doubt that. I live in Atlanta and the nearest dealer to me is PA. or MO. But, I wouldn't hesitate to buy that 8" Griz. The machine and their C/S has a good track record at this point.

      Nothing wrong with levers, I just prefer the the precision of wheels. Did they invent the wheel before the lever, or was it vice-versa? ha..ha..

   Regards for the evening...

   sarge..jt

2. 
   forestgirl | Oct 23, 2003 12:21am | #14

   I, too, like the handwheels, but must admit I've only tried the levers in the showroom.  The only lever system I've been tempted with is the one (Delta??) where there's a quick-course-adjust and then a fine adjust.  After all, adjusting an infeed table on a jointer (a few fractions here or there) isn't like adjusting the fence on a tablesaw, LOL.

   Not to worry about the weight -- as long as you can get it into your shop.  For instance, a heavy dolly from the truck through the shop door -- is that do-able??  From there, it's one piece at a time for assembly.  Stand, motor, whatever -- easy.  Table?  You will need your neighbor (or 2) for that part.  I have the Jet 6" jointer, and a friend and I put it together.  The table was pretty heavy.  Good communication and soft hands are essential!  For moving around the shop, even a little furniture dolly works (mine's bolted to one made out of oak).

   Oooooo, it'd be neat if you could get the 8" -- another soul saved from the insufficiencies of a 6" jointer, ROFL!  Let us know if you need any help planning for the arrival.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl   ;-)

3. 
   fdampier5 | Oct 23, 2003 04:07am | #17

   I bought mine before they had the wheel option.. I'd spend the extra for the wheels but I've been able to do everything well with the levers.

     I agree it's a control thing.. but if it came to it I'd accept the lever one.

    as for moving it around.  do the Egyption thing. get some pipes and roll it around using levers and pipes.   Your wife could move it to where ever it needs to go

4. 
   ToolDoc | Oct 23, 2003 07:05am | #19

   STEVE: after much research & checking & rechecking all the 8" jointers on the Market I ended up getting the Grizzly G0500 8" jointer cause IMHO it was the best buy on a 8" jointer out there & thats saying lots cause I am a Delta guy..

   if you would like to read a very good review on this jointer check out this web site..

           http://sawsndust.com/  

   I bought the model with hand wheels cause that what IM use to but the lever type deal is good too.. IM verrry happy with mine its a powerfull Beast. Don't let the weight scare ya it is manageable with a extra guy helping to move & set it up when you first get it..

                                             ToolDocProud Member of the Delta & Klein Tradesman Club & Milwaukee HD Club & Knots Bad Boys & Girls Club..

   A Non ~ Member of the Knots Bandsaw Guru Club..

1. 
   drinct | Oct 23, 2003 03:24pm | #21

   Thanks again everyone.

   I am definitely eyeballing the Griz 8-inchers right now. Maybe as a self birthday present.

   As for the jack plane, I did do some lapping on it last night. It came pretty flat except for 2 spots, one thumbprint sized area behind the mouth (which I understand to be unimportant), and one thin line just in front of the mouth, which Lee's book considers "critical". Gotta admit, it cuts a lot better now. Before I lapped it, it would always dig in a the far end of a board, certainly because it was cupped, and as the toe left the board, the iron would come down and THUNK.

   Another thing I read in Lee's book was that "most woodorkers" us Jack planes exclusively on the edge of boards. What gives? I see no reason why one would not face-plane with it. Am I missing something here?

1. 
   Mach70 | Oct 23, 2003 07:56pm | #22

   What--nobody likes the Sunhill anymore?  I also wish I could have gotten an 8" but just couldn't spare the floorspace.

   A so-far missed point:  If you buy a mailorder import it will be shipped partially disassembled.  THis actually makes it easier to get it in place--especially in a basement.

   http://www.wood-workers.com/users/mach70/index.html

2. 
   RANGERP75R | Oct 23, 2003 08:54pm | #23

   Mach

      I have and love the Sunhill 6". I feel it is the "best bang for the buck" in the 6" category. But the Griz takes the cake IMO in the 8" class. And yep,  there's a big difference in size if shop space is an issue which is more often the case than not.

   Regards...

   sarge..jt

3. 
   mike4244 | Oct 23, 2003 10:01pm | #24

   Steve, a jack plane does a fine job of surfacing boards. Most people will use a smoothing plane after the jackplane. If the jackplane gives you a nice surface you can stop there, maybe sand or scrape lightly if needed. I imagine the reason a jackplane is used more for edge planing is most people do not bother to surface plane by hand.Glad the lapping went well.

   mike

4. 
   JohnKrist | Oct 24, 2003 12:13am | #25

   All the discussion has spoken of a new machine. For the price of a new 8", you could have a 12" old machine. The exercise in research and any rehabbing makes you much much closer to the process and the skills transfer to all the other machines as well. Lurk for a while on the forum of http://www.owwm.com for a while. It's a side dedicated to rehabbers of old woodworking machinery. Lots of great resources. I'll be unlikely to buy a major floor machine new ever again.

   JK

5. 
   fdampier5 | Oct 24, 2003 06:54am | #26

   If you are good at spotting deals and like to do machinery repair what you say is true.  What is also true is there is a lot of junk out there and some of it is greatly over priced.

      The advantage of new over rebuilding should be obvious,  first you can be working with it that night rather than taking it apart and trying to track down a part that may no longer be available and needs to be machined..

     Second,  not everyone has the skill or interest in old machinery..

     third,  should there be a failure parts are readily available.

     It's bad enough to have to delay that hutch you promised your wife when the machine breaks but worse when you are still looking for a part three years later..

    Fourth,

     You might be surprised that not everything built in the 30's or 40's is better than the new equipment.  evan back then they built junk..  Just because it wieghs 600 pounds doesn't mean that it will work as well as new.

    Now with those warnings yes there sometimes are good deals..  as for me,  I'll pay a fair price and be making sawdust while you're still scrapping old grease and sawdust.  I doubt either one of my daughters will care that dads equipment doesn't weigh as much as some old behemuth, but they will point with pride at the stuff dad made instead of speanding his time rebuilding and looking for no longer stocked parts..