i am getting ready to build a workbench. it will my first one so i have been doing my homework and research trying to figure what looks like will work for me.
at this point i have pretty much decided to build the “essential” workbench which i believe was published in FWW magazine. i also found a great article in PopularWoodworking.com called “Rules for Workbenchs. It really simplifies a lot of questions.
So, my questions have less to do with joinery and mass as i have decided to build it heavy and strong (those walnut 4×4 from my other post are mine) using through-mortise and tenons with a 3 to 4″ thick top.
I am now focused on
a. whether or not to use sleds under the legs
– i like the look of the sleds but i like the ability to easily cut the legs for a height change if need be in the future.
b. whether or not to place the legs flush with the edges of the top
-i suppose flush = no sleds.
-i think flush would be good for more abilty to secure work to the bench using clamps or dogs. but recessed may mean more room for my body (no leg on leg contact)
c. 1 stringer or 2.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Paul
Replies
My bench has sleds although I never thought of them being called that. They are a pain to sweep around, but they add substantial weight to the base. They are made of concrete. I don't think having the sled base adds any strength or stability to a bench otherwise. I'd opt for simple legs if that's what you prefer.
My inset legs offer full access to the dog holes. If they were flush to the outside, I'd think there would be problems with that access. And, inset legs allow one to use a clamp anywhere along the edge.
You are on the right track in planning on a thick heavy top. My bench certainly fits that description and it simply doesn't like to move about while I'm messing about on it. Rigid construction is also mandatory.
Here is a thread initially about bench dogs but has some good suggestions and sources of bench info.
The sleds help protect the legs when/if you drag the bench out into the middle of the floor or push it out of the way against the wall. Keeps one leg connected to the other so they don't judder across the floor etc. and loosen up the leg joints.
roc
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
Fortunately, FWW solved the benchdog question a couple months ago, by declaring, once and for all, that round dogs are best. :)
paulray,
I like sled feet. They accommodate an uneven floor and, most importantly, help lock in the legs as they dry( does not prevent cracks but helps twist). I set the sled feet back a bit from the bench edge(2") to facilitate the incorporation of a dead-man under the top.
I also put mini sleds(smaller and shorter) on the top of the legs and run a shallow dado on the underside of the top to prevent racking of the bench; Slots with lag bolts secure the top.
Paul,
I built my bench 3 years ago from a copy of Woodworking Magazine. I made a few changes but most followed the plans for the frame of the bench. The legs and stretchers were drawbored and set with 3/8 dowels. The frame is massive and heavy and with the top on it it doesn't not move.
My next project for this bench is to give it a proper top. The one on there now is made from several sheets of plywood and beginning to show its age, about 10 years.
The previous bench was held together with half lap joints and carriage bolts, this was fine for a few years but eventually they loosened up no matter how many times I tightened the nuts.
The legs on mine sit on the floor with no sleds and this has not been a problem as far as I can see.
Greg
I built my current bench about 15 years ago and sidetracked by some design details and forgot what I'd be using the bench for day after day. This will vary from person to person. For me, it is clamping, holding, clamping, securing, clamping . . . you get the drift. Unfortunately, my bench is not the greatest for clamping and I installed too cheap vises. Jim
I'm right in the middle of building my first bench now. I chose to build the one detailed in season two of "Getting Started in Woodworking" for several reasons.
First, I'm a total beginner, and have neither skills nor tools, and don't know yet how or what I'll end up using the bench for, or if I'll even use it a all. At least this will give me something to learn on, and is proving to be a great first woodworking prodject.
Second, it's not that expensive, and it requires the exact tools I have to construct, a circular saw, a drill, and a router.
Third, I figure I'll eventually want something else or something better, but It should get me by and allow me to make a little sawdust while I learn, and untill I figure out what I'll eventually want in a workbench. Then I can alwayse use it as extra surface area to clamp, do finishing, or store stuff. If I find it gets in my way, I can alwayse recover the expensive bench vice to use elsewhere, then either give or throw the bench away, and I haven't lost that much.
Edited 10/11/2009 10:24 am ET by JDBraddy
JD,
A solid core door makes a really good benchtop and can be a relatively inexpensive alternative. I get them for $25 each. Make good benchtops all around.
Just don't skimp on the vise(es). Good vises can make a real difference, on any bench.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I'll keep that in mind, where do you get them for that price? As for the vice, I only bought one to start with, but upgraded from the 7" to the 9" Groz quick relise cast iron woodworking vise. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2004939/7764/Quick-Release-Vise--9-Width--10-Opening.aspx Building this beench has been a great learning experience so farr.
I've had a few problems along the way. I opted to use Cedar instead of construction grade pine. The legs are actually 4X4 instead of 3.5X3.5 and the runners 2X4 instead of 1.5 X 3.75" so the measurements reqired a little adjusting. My cuts with the circular saw wheren't perfectly square, so holes and such wherent perfectly alligned, the truss rods where 1/2 inch too short in some cases. The top is too narrow and doesn't leave enough room for clamping on all edges. My crappy old stamped sheetmetal router blade broke about six inches from having all the groves cut in the runners, then I discovered the dato's where too tight, for the truss rods to set down in them, so I had to run out and buy a new set of router bits, and re-rout everything.
I went way over budget, on this supposedly inexpensive prodject. I had to buy a circle an edge guide for the router $40, as well as a new set of router bits $55, A set of Fostner bits $164, Clamps and measuring toos, Combination square, tape measure, etc.... and varous other assorted goodies. So farr, I've spent better than $500 tools and all, and I'm still not done yet!
JD,
Oh my. I hope you don't mind but I got a really big belly laugh from that. What are you thinking?! Ye think this hasn't happened before? You see, it's all just a giant ruse to get you to spend more money.
Hell man, at the costs you've sited so far yer gettin off cheap! Ye aint seen nothin yet! This here hobby is just one big bundle of laughs.
Welcome to the club,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
JD,
I would have to agree with KiddervilleAcres. It is in a way humorous but more common than most would admit.
The greater majority of those that make money in a profession are those that supply it, as opposed to those that practice it. :)BoilerBay
JD,
There's a salvage yeard about 40 miles from me. But I get them from a local guy (my sawyers father). He got them from an old school that was torn down. The doors are solid core birch, 1/8" veneer on both sides with T&G 2 by planks for the interior part. Not sure what the planks are but they are HEAVY!
I've had it for the better part of 4 years now and looks none the worse for wear. I got all the shellac off that was on it and it gets a rubbing down with Watco danish oil about once ayear. It's got some dings from use. It aint no showpiece but it works for me.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
My bench is adapted from Lon Schleinings Essential Work Bench.
Some comments:
1. If by "stringers" you mean "stretchers" then definitely 2 front and 2 back. If they are to support the top then I didn't use any but probably one would make it a little better and I may retrofit one at some time in the future.
2. If you don't use "sleds", I assume that sled = trestle foot then you _must_ put a front-to-back stretcher on each side. Apart from adding stability you can then use the stretchers to mount a shelf below the bench. Warning: sawdust falls through the dogholes.
3. Work out how much overhang you need at the side to fit a vice. You can't cut through the apron.
4. Wouldn't making the legs flush with the edges of the top interfere with clamping? After all you clamp to the top, not the legs. I personally would never do this, there are enough potential hazards in a workshop without adding toe stubbing to the list.
For what it is worth, my bench has a larger overhang on the left to accomodate my Record vice. There is a shop-built twin-screw end vice on the right. No trestle feet and recessed legs.
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