Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Nov 19, 2007 03:53am | #1

   I don't know what the collet nut looks like on that particular router, but many have a C-ring that holds the collet to the nut. If yours looks like that, just keep unscrewing the nut until the C-ring bottoms out on the top of the nut. A further quarter-turn or so (you may need to use the wrench) should put enough axial force on the collet to pop it out.

   Sometimes, gunk on the tapered portion of the collet and its mating cavity causes the two to stick together. Cleaning off both parts with a good solvent should help.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   Yogi | Nov 19, 2007 04:19am | #2

   Steve-  Thanks for your reply-  Much obliged-  Yogi

2. 
   bldrbill | Nov 19, 2007 06:24am | #3

   Rap on the nut with a wrench after you have unscrewed it.  That's how I loosen mine.

1. 
   Yogi | Nov 19, 2007 09:26am | #6

   Thanks for your thought-  I did rap the little bugger a couple times-  It didn't seem to do any good, and I wondered what it might be doing bad-  Live & learn-

1. 
   oldusty | Nov 21, 2007 10:12am | #17

     Several of mine are slow to release the bits as well , I do rap them with the router wrench hard several times before they release .

         As long as you don't hit the Carbide on the bit there is no worry about causing damage .

                       dusty

1. 
   Yogi | Nov 21, 2007 11:25am | #18

   Dusty-  Thanks, and I'll bear it in mind-  It's the more expedient way if it works, it just didn't seem to when I tried it-  Actually I didn't break the bit banging on the nut, but by pulling on it-  A little 1/8 inch downtwist, and I evidently didn't pull straight out-  Steve's advice was right on, for me, though-  Just unscrewed it down to the keeper, then a 1/4 turn, and the whole deal came lose-  Popped the bit right out-  I did scrub it out, I'll give it a tap and see if it releases any easier-  Thanks again for your reply-

   Yogi

1. 
   sharpenedtool | Nov 22, 2007 02:08am | #19

   I use O rings at the bottom of my trim router to keep the bits from bottoming out.
   At first I used one, then I tried 2..
   I like 2 better since the o rings are very small.
   This give you space to compress the bit down to release. So you can pull up.

2. 
   Yogi | Nov 22, 2007 02:38am | #20

   That sounds like a permanent fix-  You'd think they'd come that way-  I'll try it-  Thank you-

3. 
   trialnut | Nov 22, 2007 05:18pm | #21

   I occasionally take the collet apart, clean it well and before reassembly take a pencil and rub some graphite on the tapered surfaces. Do the inside of the chuck and the outside of the collet but not the inside of the collet that contacts the shaft of the bit. This stops the sticking problem and I have never had a bit slip in the collet using this method. It has worked for me on everything from small 1/8 collets on foredom type tools to large 3/4 collets on spindle sanders.

   RichThe Professional Termite

4. 
   WillGeorge | Nov 23, 2007 06:41pm | #22

   Good advice..I use my routers every day and the ones I use many call junk (Ryobi at about $100.00.. And two PC with that C ring Pop up feature (which is good)..I saw the post... One who forces a precision fit collet on a tool that turns 20000 rpm to the point of breaking bits probably can't read the manual anyway, I don't think they have come out with a crayon drawing version yet.I find that a 'bit' harsh but they can say what they want in here.. I'm OK with that.I have been using routers all my woodworking life and I have never had a bit stuck in a collet. But then again, I blow the dust out with a air hose (when I think of it) from the router and collet. I try to do it every time but sometimes I forget. AND I always wipe off the shaft of my bits with a rag before using them....One who forces a precision fit collet on a tool .. Reminds me of when I was a Tank Mechanic in the Army.. The first class.. the instructor said 'here in the Tank Mechanics group', because thing are so big, we find the biggest wrench that fits in the shop and tighten it until you hear it crack and then back it off 1/4 turn.. By the way, you may have to get a buddy or two to help push the wrench enough to get to the point to hear the crack.. And gave us each a task to do..I remember as he walked off he said something about the manuals for each Tank we were working on and we could get them anytime we wanted..Me being sort of lazy thought reading a manual was less work and I looked up the part for my task.. Lets just say the manual showed the exact tool to use and the torque required for that part.. And other stuff such as lubrication Etc.. And well, if that did not work at least I had a good starting point.I spent the next week with the instructor watching the others remove the threaded parts of the (deep inside) broken off bolts (I learned from what they did, watchin' them grunt ALOT).Just like tightening the nut on a saw blade or anyother thing.. You may not have a torque specification but just a bit tight is usually all you need unless otherwise instructed..

3. 
   [email protected] | Nov 19, 2007 06:50am | #4

   The PC routers were one of the first to have the release feature built into the collet.  Turn it until it loosens, and then keep turning about half a turn, (it tightens up again, and pulls the collet out), and it will release itself.  Peridically clean the collet with a brass brush to keep things clean.  I recommend buying a pistol cleaning kit, with 25 and 50 caliber brushes.  I use brake cleaner as a solvent. 

   Not to be snide, but; you really should read the manual. 

1. 
   Yogi | Nov 19, 2007 08:21am | #5

   I have no manual-  At risk of being snide, please ignore any future messages I might post-  I've ample good advice, sans your suedo superiority, from the other fellas- 

1. 
   dgreen | Nov 19, 2007 10:39am | #7

   I guess his internet access is limited to knots. Those manuals are hard to find, I only got 60000 hits on google.

   I'll make sure I don't respond to any of his future requests either. If he thinks you are unpleasant he sure as heck won't like me!

   One who forces a precision fit collet on a tool that turns 20000 rpm to the point of breaking bits probably can't read the manual anyway, I don't think they have come out with a crayon drawing version yet.

   I had considered sending him a copy of the manual but have reconsidered.

   I have appreciated the tips and ideas you have had the kindness to post.

    

    

   Don... being pseudo superior (note correct spelling as opposed to illiterate rant from Boo Boo's buddy).------------------------------------

   It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore

2. 
   [email protected] | Nov 19, 2007 08:00pm | #8

   Yogi, you obviously need to download it and read it. 

   There have been several tools that I have used, (still use), and enjoy that have been pulled from the market because people didn't read the manual, and decided the tool was defective, instead of they were ignorant. 

   Porter-Cable's "Bammer" line of fuel fired nailers and staplers is one that comes readily to mind.  The manual gave explicit instructions on how to break it in.  Key to that was running several sticks of staples through it on the first use to break in the cylinder rings on it's little piston.  People didn't read the manual, and the tools wore out rapidly because of it.  A fine tool that got killed by ignorant users. 

   The instructions in the manual including the safety information should be read, for just about every tool you own.  You have probably a day's worth of take home pay invested in a tool, and can't invest an hour maximum to read the manual on how to use it.  That mystifies me. 

   In closing, maybe it isn't pseudo superiority.  (And, yes that was intended to be a snide comment.)  BTW, there is a spell checker so you don't misspell words like pseudo. 

1. 
   Jimurock | Nov 19, 2007 08:51pm | #9

   Too bad PC didn't extend their superior technology to all of their routers.  I have a laminate trimmer with a collet system that is just plain bad.  For some reason the collet interior is much larger than 1/4 inch, and contains a floating cone-shaped insert into which the bit fits.   To say that the bit sticks is an understatement.  The manual is really helpful; "If bit does not remove easily from collet, tap the collet nut with wrench to release bit."  Yeah, right.  To do that you have to remove the base plate only to find that the wrench is much too flimsy.  A rubber mallet rarely works.  You usually have to use a hammer, and on the bit rather than the collet nut.  Since you're holding the tool in one hand and the hammer in the other, the bit falls on the bench and the insert bounces into the sawdust on the floor.  If it detaches from the bit, that is.  If it doesn't, then you have to go through another process.  I've pretty much stopped using the darned thing, except in dire need.  For every tool that goes off the market through consumer ignorance there's another that shouldn't have come on the market until properly designed.

   Jim

1. 
   [email protected] | Nov 19, 2007 11:45pm | #10

   I have a couple of their laminate trimmers and agree the collets don't work well at all so far as releasing the bits. 

   I have found that if you leave them out about 1/8 to 1/4-inch from being bottomed out, you can loosen the collet nut, and tap the end of the bit like you are trying to drive the bit further into the motor, and they will usually pop loose.  If that fails tapping the bit gently from the side will break things loose.  I keep a UHMW plastic tapping block around just for the purpose.   

   I do wish they would engineer a new collet design to incorporate the self loosening feature, but I think the smaller size of the collet and nut, don't leave a lot of room to work with.  The other thing I wish they would fix is the height adjustment system.  It is probably a bigger pain then the collet.  But, the guys who use them professionally tend to put a bit in and leave it there until it gets too dull to trim laminate with, and then take it out only to replace it with one just like it.  So, for that target user group neither of them is probably as much of an issue as it is for those of us who use it as a small router, and change bit profiles, and cutting depths frequently. 

2. 
   dgreen | Nov 20, 2007 12:07am | #11

   You might like the 310 better.------------------------------------

   It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore

   
3. 
   Jimurock | Nov 20, 2007 12:17am | #13

   I wanted the 310, but it was impossible to find in Canada, even at the PC booth at woodshows.  So I settled for the poc pc.

   Jim

4. 
   dgreen | Nov 20, 2007 12:20am | #14

   I could'nt find one around here either but I was able to special order it.------------------------------------

   It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore

5. 
   colebearanimals | Nov 20, 2007 11:41pm | #15

       

   I've got the 310, two in fact . Good little router but router bits stick in both.

                                                        Paul

6. 
   dgreen | Nov 21, 2007 06:25am | #16

   Yep the bits still stick, the depth adjustment is much more to my liking though. I use the same trick with the uhmw to free the bits. Sure is a bullet proof little router.------------------------------------

   It would indeed be a tragedy if the history of the human race proved to be nothing more than the story of an ape playing with a box of matches on a petrol dump. ~David Ormsby Gore

7. 
   Jimurock | Nov 20, 2007 12:15am | #12

   Good advice.  Thanks,

   Jim